Anti Paxos

 

Suzie123 I'm going to Corfu this year and am thinking about car hire and so on but I have a fair idea that I won't bother once I'm there.

 

Christineruse it may just be a case of checking out the different operators to see their route, maybe you could use the normal ferry or hydrofoil and stay a night - or not, if the times are right you could get a full day there? I've seen pleasure boats pull in at Lakka whilst I've been there but most of the trips I've seen online only mention Gaios & Anti Paxos, better still just book a week in Paxos!

We did go over many years ago when there was a trip boat running, but apart from the climb up to the castle (quite nice and with spectacular views) we ended up on the town beach with hoards of others waiting for the return back.

We then did it again in 2007 on our own little RIB with 4 others -  to give it a second chance and thinking being under our own steam it would be better. Up the hill, down the hill, back on the boat and over to Anti Paxos for a decent late lunch. Definitely no better

Some people will no doubt disagree but I think you can find much nicer ways to waste time on and around Paxos/Anti Paxos

 

Enjoy your trip (odds on it wont be your last!)

 

Jeff

 

We were in Lakka on (Greek) Easter Sunday and then visited Emerald Bay on Monday, before spending the night in Gaios.

 

The Easter processions were very interesting and quite atmospheric - it was a priviledge to be able to witness them.

 

Unfortunately, this being Easter Sunday, both Stasinos gardens and the Harbour Lights bar were closed, so we had to make alternative arrangements - we ate in the only taverna open in the square (and they were struggling due to under-estimating the number of foriegn visitors) and then moved on to Romantica.

 

The wind was a bit too strong for us to spend very long in Emerald Bay (a shame because we were the only yacht there!) so moved on the Gaios.  By the time we got there (mid afternoon) most places were open although a few were still observing the Easter closure.  We has an excellent meal in Tak-Tak at the back of the village.

 

All in all, a most enjoyable visit.

 

Martyn

 

We were in Lakka on (Greek) Easter Sunday and then visited Emerald Bay on Monday, before spending the night in Gaios.

 

The Easter processions were very interesting and quite atmospheric - it was a priviledge to be able to witness them.

 

Unfortunately, this being Easter Sunday, both Stasinos Gardens and the Harbour Lights bar (in Lakka) were closed, so we had to make alternative arrangements - we ate in the only taverna open in the square (and they were struggling due to under-estimating the number of foriegn visitors) and then moved on to Romantica.

 

The wind was a bit too strong for us to spend very long in Emerald Bay (a shame because we were the only yacht there!) so moved on the Gaios.  By the time we got there (mid afternoon) most places were open although a few were still observing the Easter closure.  We has an excellent meal in Taka-Taka at the back of the village.

 

All in all, a most enjoyable visit.

 

Martyn

Welcome to the board, and may I say what a fine choice you've made in deciding to go to Paxos, and Loggos in particular.

The joy of Loggos (Paxos generally really) is that it is so small you are bound to find your way around even without tips from folk who've been before you, but you're certainly in the right place if its tips that you want.

With a fortnight to play with, you'll be able to thoroughly explore all the foodie options, which is part of the joy of Loggos.  I'm about to go for my fifth visit in 3 years (I'll be there 4-14 May) and can honestly say that I haven't had a bad meal yet.  I could give glowing reports of all the eateries in Loggos, but special mention must go to Aste Doue and Tolis' Grill.  

Aste Doue is right on the harbour front, and their food is just magnificent.  Their specialty is traditional Greek and mediterranean food which the chef lovingly prepares with great imagination and real flair.  I have heard some complain that the menu is slightly confusing, not being of the traditional starters, mains, desserts variety.  It really isn't difficult though, just order a few plates of whatever takes your fancy and enjoy whiling away a very pleasant hour or two.

Tolis has a grill house on the lane leading away from the sea.  Here is the place to go for extremely tasty local meat cooked on the spit.  The food that Tolis makes is the most simple and the cheapest in Loggos, but for me it is the taste of Loggos that I miss the most when I'm not there.  Also, his mothers tzatziki is the best I've ever had, and I speak as one who lived with a Greek girl for 2 years.  

Boats won't be a problem for you.  You can hire one from either Roxy Bar, Panos, or Nikos.  I don't imagine that they'll be rushed off their feet in early May, so you are unlikely to be disappointed, and you should be able to get yourself a deal.  Don't be afraid to ask around about rates.  As a starting point, figure on 40-45 euros per day, which ought to come down a little depending on your ability to haggle and the length of time you want the boat for.  You should get a discount if you take a boat for a few days or a week.  Your fuel will be on top of this, and obviously, your fuel consumption will depend on how far and how fast you go.  Last year, if memory serves, it cost us 35 euros to have completed a leisurely circumnavigation of the island, then lots of to-ing and fro-ing un and down the east coast for the day.  I think it would be difficult to spend more than that.  On a light day of gentle pootling, perhaps to Lakka and back, down to Kipiadi beach or what have you, you'll spend a lot less.  Top tip, don't go flat out.  There's really no need, and it drinks fuel.

The water will still be a little cold in early May, but if you're brave enough for a swim, you could do a lot worse than the channel between the southern tip of Paxos and the small island just off it (not anti Paxos, which is much further).  Take your boat there, hugging the coast after Gaios and you can't miss it.  There's a tiny chapel on the islet, and signs imploring you not to land there. Drop anchor in the narrow straight, and enjoy snorkling with thousands of time fishes.  Its a magical place.  Likewise the coves and caves on the west of the island.  The west is all cliffs, whereas the east is beaches, albeit mainly of the pebbly variety.

In Loggos, Europa (Evropi) do fantastic coffee, and the owner Christos is a wonderful man with a charming family.  Aside from him, there are two bars, Roxy and Taxidi, right next door to each other.  They are both wonderful, but very different to one another.  Try them both, and you'll probably find you have a favourite.  I don't want to plant any seeds that might influence you one way or another - the joy lies in finding out for yourself.  What I will say though, is that Spiros Taxidi is a genius when it comes to fruit cocktails.  His bar is laden with fresh fruit, and he knows how to use it!

Spiros is also an excellent musician.  Last September, I was extremely fortunate to be there when an impromptu music night happened at Tolis, involving Spiros and his accordion, a fantastic chap called Elias with his bouzouki, and several others whose names I don't know.  This wasn't a tourist night.  By 10 pm, we were the only English left amongst perhaps 50 Paxiots, all eating, singing, clapping, dancing and playing songs of love, loss and death.  I think it was after 2 when we left, and it was still going on.  Marvellous.  Ask around.  If you're lucky, something similar may break out during your visit, and if it does, it really will be an experience to remember.

There's a bakery in Loggos, and being an early bird will pay dividends.  Fantastic bread, which they use to make some very tasty sandwiches.  Load up on a few of these, and perhaps some of their heavenly spanikopita before heading out for the day.  Delicious.

What else can I say?  The sunset bar at Erimitis has magnificent, eagles nest views over the west coast and shouldn't be missed.  The sunsets are spectacular.  The beaches south of Loggos get progressively more wonderful the farther you go.  Levrecchio is the very next beach along and is fringed by Sprios Boukalis taverna.  Not cheap, but very good food.  If you carry on following the path to the side of him, you'll eventually come firstly to Kipos beach, then Kipiadi, which is my favourite.  

You'll be going when the sun shouldn't be too fierce, and there is great joy to be had in exploring the paths that criss cross the entire island.  A walking map is a very good investment, and you should be able to pick one up in Loggos from either Panos (near the soap factory) or the tourist office next to the church. Your walks can be as strenuous or as relaxing as you want.  

Getting around is easy enough.   There's a bus that you will enjoy watching as it picks its way round Loggos harbour.  It can get you to Lakka and to Gaios.  Also, there are half a dozen taxis on the island, and invariably you will find one waiting on the quayside in Loggos.  If you get stuck somewhere and need transport, you're bound to find somebody who can call a taxi for you if you need it.  

I almost forgot Easter.  You'll be there over Easter, as will I.  I'm looking forward to it very much, as I've never done it before.  I'm told that it is very special, with candle lit processions, icons being carried on roads festooned with flowers, celebrations with fireworks and then a heavy emphasis on feasting.  

You're going to have a wonderful time, I just know it.  There is so much more that I could write about places, people, restaurants, kafenions, beaches, walks and other things too.  There's also so much more that I don't know, and that I'm looking forward to discovering in two trips this year, and doubtless many others in years to come.  You have a fortnight, and that is plenty of time to have a good old explore.  I'm pretty certain that towards the end of the fortnight, you'll be agonising over whether to visit/eat somewhere that you haven't been before, or whether to visit/eat at one of the many places you will by then have fallen in love with.

Have a fantastic time!

All best,

Sam.

Torture!

That's less than 8 weeks to go!!!  You lucky boy!

 

 

Hope alls OK - but with a resignation from the forum it doesnt seem so. First the Pope and then you???

I really hope things are OK - and if you get there - 'borrow' the pedalo and I WILL tow you to Anti Paxos for lunch

Best wishes

Jeff

Whatever you do Helen - Dont forget the hat.

 

PS - We're taking the caravan down to the west country in April/May.

 

Thanks for the message. One of the reasons for starting this forum is to get the views of "people in the know". We didn't even know of Meganisi but think we must spend time there, so we will start to have a closer look at Paxos. If we spent a couple of days there, we could day trip Antipaxos, which would be a result.

 

Must go now, have to dash off to Brighton!!

 

Best wishes,

Terry

 

Best wishes,

Terry

(posh people from the Manor House!)

I watched a west coast video tonight and didn't realise after all the times we've been round the west in the Roxi boat that there are 3 caves to go into. We know the middle one where we meet the Captain Hook and then have a race with him to Anti Paxos but have never noticed the 2 either end but we do stay a bit further out in case of rocks. Will have a closer look next year. Never had a sea that calm though.

So excited. I'm hiding downstairs too see if Santa can get down the flue of the gas log fire to get to our tree!!

I could live with it, cruising and posing through Gaios then over to Anti Paxos for lunch.

But it's not got the same appeal as a Brava 16 looked after by Spiros and the boys and Mrs Malcy tells me off if I go too fast for too long!!

 

 

Very smooth and clearly still got his priorities right - beautiful fast boat, leaves the partner at home whilst he slums it in Corfu and 'may' think of settling down and buying something slower and more befitting family life >>> (or maybe later )

 

This was the second brief glimpse of Paxos in this series - as all of us addicted to our special place will know!

 

Dont think Spiros (and certainly not Mrs M - or Mrs B !) would enjoy filling up the fuel tank; most probably burns around 250 litres an hour at speed

I could live with it, cruising and posing through Gaios then over to Anti Paxos for lunch.

But it's not got the same appeal as a Brava 16 looked after by Spiros and the boys and Mrs Malcy tells me off if I go too fast for too long!!

 

 

Here we go again...

 

Hire boat for the day. A trip to Anti Paxos. Biking around the island. A romantic meal at Biros.

 

We didn't do any of them!!  Paxotis set it. But we did do lots of walking!

 

You can only marvel at how you can keep going back to such a small island and enjoy all the things you know and still discover new things too. The walking was my highlight despite the fact I had a lot of trouble with my legs. I would struggle walking uphill for the first half an hour or so from my ankles to midcalf in both legs which meant I would have to keep stopping to let the pain ease but then once it passed I would be like a 2 year old...well almost! I suppose it could be my age but I prefer to blame the very expensive walking sandles I bought!  

 

I really thought about what it is about walking on Paxos that I enjoy so much. Because I am a lady who much prefers when at home to stay curled up with a good book than do that dirty word...excercise!! When you walk in the olive groves the trunks black against the silver green of the leaves following the walled paths that take you through little hamlets there is not a sound. Its almost as if the houses you pass are deserted the owners have left in a hurry. You might spot a T. towel hanging on a washing line the only sign that someone might be at home or you might come across a lazy cat snoozing in the sun. Not a bird not a cricket just silence. These are the walks I enjoyed the most. Admitedly its not always like that as occasionally you do come across a deep barking dog who sounds as if he would love some rump for diner...as you pray like mad as you get closer that he is chained up!!! 

 

We saw Tina on most days either in one of the restaurants or around the pool - she swims and dives beautifully!! We saw Belious who I can confirm that even when its cold he still wears his jackets short enough to expose his rather large belly. Denis the Menace another charactor we love, a small boy who always has amused us, now more grown up and leaving his menace years behind. And of course Alexandros who proudly showed me the photos I had sent him 2 years ago of our grandson "The Boy" now hanging up in a frame along side his family. I was really touched!

 

Be back soon! 

 

We had no problems at all with either jet2 or the hydrofoil and arrived on Paxos to enjoy the last of the days sunshine and a beautiful sunset as we drove the 15 minutes to the Bastas. I was pleased to know that after missing a year Kostas remembered me. Then huffing and puffing our way upstairs with the luggage we found we had been allocated a room at the top on the front. Not the largest of rooms but I was happy. (I did discover the easiest way to get your luggage down though. You do what one guest did on our last day -this was 7.15am - you let it bang its way down behind you on every step! I think everyone in reception must have had their eyes turned to the stairs waiting to see who the culprit was for making such a din!!)

 

The weather. I'll get that one out the way as I know a lot of you knew we were there in the storms. Well it didn't actually spoil the holiday at all probably because we had another week but the poor souls that were there for one week only!! We had had 3 glorious days of sunshine on arrival when we were told to batten down the hatches rain on Friday was coming in. It would rain all day for 3 days!! So with the fear of finding ourselves stuck in barracks we decided that Thursday would be a walking day. We caught a bus into Gaios and headed out to Avlaki Creek and then after to the view point at Orthlitho giving us beautiful views all the way back to Pasari. A walk we had never done before and loved the green valley to find ourselves resting on the rocks among a herd of goats who had come down from the hillside to drink from the pool rocks. I made sure I did not turn my back on any not wanting to find myself taking a fully clothed swim!! The skies above turned black a few times but after a fantastic day walking for over 4 hours we went for a predinner drink at Fanis bar. We began to be suspicious earlier in the day when we saw Kostas clearing out the ditches outside the hotel of leaves and debris and then no sooner had the wind blinds been put into place around Fanis bar the whole bay became as bright as day as lightening forked downwards. The rain had started! The storm crashed and banged all night and the following morning we watched from our room the trees almost bending right over in the storm. We spent the day dodging the rain - a drink at Fanis, a snack at Harami, another drink at Fanis. Well what else can you do??  That night we paddled our way to the restaurants.

 

Saturday morning we decided to risk a trip to Loggos. Boy was the sea up! More than once I had to sit on a restaurant table to keep my feet dry! We had a lovely walk up to the old windmill and back into Lakka and was almost there when the heavens opened. I had managed to make my way to - yes Fanis bar and kev who was wetter than me went back to the room to change. Poor Kev no sooner had he changed and was on his way down to me then it came down again. He was stranded in Romantica and I at Fanis and through the mist could just make each other out. Those in Fanis huddled together trying to dodge the wet whilst the staff ran around grabbing the already sodden seating. The nearby cafes were constantly  pushing the overhead canopies with a broom handle to off load the rain - poor Kev yet again-  at one time he had managed to sucessfully stay dry only to find himself like a drowned rat after a canopy off loaded all over him!   That night Stasinos Gardens were having to bail out and many restaurants were closed. We managed to get a table at Nionisos. Kev sat not under one but two drips! He was wet again. That night we swam back to our room.

At last Sunday afternnon and the sun returned!! But there was a sting in the storms tail. A few days later another storm arrived we were sat up by the pool when it came from nowhere. Like the true Brits we are a few of us sat it out hiding under the canopy wrapped in our towels to keep us warm hanging onto our ears as the thunder again banged around us. That night we were shocked to see the sails of one of the flotilla boats who had found itself in trouble during the storm. Its sail was totally shredded!

I think it will be fair to say we will talk for years about "that year of the storm"!

 

I'll be back with more of my review soon...just worried that as it takes me so long to write I get timed out!

Nearly all beaches on Paxos are stoney but catch the sea taxis that go from Gaios to Anti Paxos and you've got sand, blue seas and beachside Taverna (not sure about sun beds though)

 

"I have been promising to write an article about my experiences on my motorcycle trip to Corfu back in June, but I'm afraid that life generally got in the way. That said, I've been working on it steadily, so at long last, here it is (well, at least, the part as far as Corfu!).

In The Begining

The seeds for this trip were sown many years ago, when Lynn's sister was offered a summer job at the Paxos Beach Hotel This was in about 1979 and in those days Lynn and I spent our holidays touring Europe by bike, using a combination of hotels or campsites, depending upon location, length of stay and costs. By way of a change, a trip down to Brindisi, ferry to Corfu and then a local ferry (I think that the Kamelia was still being used in those days) to Paxos in order to visit said sister appeared ideal!

Sadly, the sister (Julie) was talked out of taking the job, so the bike trip never happened. Regulars to the site, however, will know that we have made numerous road journeys over the years and are complete fans of Greece and Corfu.

Now, fast forward to 2004/5 and I am now on the road to recovery following a serious motorcycle accident the year before. I'm lacking in confidence generally (and on a bike in particular) and need to lay a few ghosts. For Christmas (2004) I'm given - by Lynn - both the book and DVD set of "The Long Way Round" - the bike trip around the world undertaken by Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman. Now, this seriously got the juices flowing and my feet became incredibly itchy! What could I do? I've got a bike (BMW K1200 LT). Clearly, I'm not going around the world, but Greece sounds like an excellent option!

Then Lynn managed to wangle a week in Corfu on her own in early May. That did it! If she could go on her own, the so could I, so the ferries were booked (Speed Ferries from Dover to Boulogne and Anek from Ancona to Igoumenitsa) and the route planned. Departure was scheduled for Thursday 9th June and I intended to be back home on Sunday19th. Then, eldest son, James asks if we can do the classic car rally organised by our local pub on that Sunday and can I navigate for him. Well, yes, OK – but! The holiday needs to be rescheduled and what was originally intended as gentle-ish tour turns in to an endurance marathon as I now have to be back on Friday 17th so we can spend Saturday getting the car ready. So after much time spent on the phone and computer, the schedule looks like this:

      8th June – 14.45 Ferry, Dover to Boulogne
     10th June – 16.00 Anek Ferry, Ancona to Igoumenitsa
     15th June – 22.30 Anek Ferry, Igoumenitsa to Ancona
     17th June – 21.00 Ferry, Boulogne to Dover.

This gives me just 4 nights on Corfu, although almost 5 days.

I normally use Minoan ferries, but on this occasion there was no return sailing from Igoumenitsa, so it had to be Anek.

Many people have suggested using Minoan from Venice, rather than Ancona, but with such a short time available for both the driving and time on Corfu, the Anek route provides the best (for me) compromise as you get to Corfu by about 10.30am, meaning that I am in San Stephanos in
good time for lunch!




I'm Off

Anyway, 8th June dawns bright and sunny (a good sign) so after a 06.30 business breakfast meeting, the bike is finally loaded and I'm off – and only half an hour behind schedule. At the last minute, Lynn looks at me and says “I wish I was coming too” harking back to those distant days when we toured together by bike – Ah, one day!

The traffic en-route to Dover is very light and I arrive early for the ferry, despite taking it very gently along the A2, and then find that there is a delay. Still, after grabbing a coffee, I while away the time talking to other bikers about their experiences and plans. As you might expect, they are a very mixed bunch, with plans ranging from a quick weekend away to a couple on a world tour over the next year.

Eventually the time comes to load and the bikes are on first, shepherded into a corner and wedged and tied down to the deck by very efficient crew members, who take care not to scratch the paint and ensure that there is no way the bike will fall over.

France (day one)

This being Speedferries (who use a high speed catermaran) an hour and a quarter later I'm riding down the ramp onto French soil. I always get a buzz at this point – the ferry doors opening onto the whole of continental Europe ahead and miles and miles of open road! But first, I have to get out of town and as it's now 5pm local time, it's the rush hour. Not too bad, only takes half an hour to get onto the Autoroute and start heading South.

My route to Ancona for this trip takes me south along the coast towards Amiens; this section of motorway is quite spectacular as the great modern viaducts span the rural valleys that have remained unchanged for years, then; east through St Quentin, Reims on towards Dijon, Besancon, into Swtizerland, Lausanne, Villars (where I intend so visit friends – hence this less than direct route) through the St Bernard Tunnel and into Italy, Aosta, Milan, Modena and finally into Ancona.

At this stage, I have no plans as to where I'm going to stop for the night, but given that many of the major hotel chains in France serve food until 10pm, it seems sensible to stop at around 8.30. Hopefully, I'll make it as far as Troyes as I know that it is possible to get from there to Milan via our friends in one hard slog, if necessary. Best laid plans! After my first fuel stop, it's clear all is not well. Firstly, an indicator bulb blows as I rejoin the Autoroute, then I'm aware that the bike is running roughly, vibrating more than it should and not pulling too well. Not wanting to stop on the hard shoulder, I push on to the next rest area and check things over (and replace that bulb). As I can't find anything obvious, I conclude that the fuel must be of poor quality and decide to continue with the trip, but refuel again when the tank gets down to half full. This ruse seems to partially cure the problem – it's not right, but it is better. However, having lost an hour or so, there is no way I can make Troyes, so at about 8pm I roll off the motorway at Reims, find a Novotel immediately which has a room available and decide to call it a day. Having checked in (do take your passport with you when you do this, as it saves lots of messing about – I left mine on the bike at the other end of the car park!) I call Lynn to bring her up to date with my progress and to pick up business messages, and go in search of dinner.

France (day two)

The delays on the previous day had put me somewhat behind schedule, so with great difficulty, I drag myself out of bed at 5.30 on Thursday morning, check out of the hotel and hit the road by 6.30, having given the bike a once over. Having had temperatures in the mid 20's on Wednesday, this morning it's cold, only 8 degrees, but with so far to go, I have to press on – I really want to be on the other side of Milan before I stop tonight.

Despite the cold, the rolling hills of the Champagne region give me a positive lift as they stream by, with great fountains of water irrigating this years grape crop on it's annual journey from field to my fridge (not all of it you understand) and it has to get into the bottle first! One of the great pleasures about motoring through France is that the changing seasons are so obvious as rural life follows its never ending pattern. Somehow, in the South of England anyway, this is not quite so evident as much arable farm land close to the main roads seems to have fallen to be used as golf courses.


I'm really settling into the rhythm now, the countryside rolling by, the occasional stops for tolls and fuel (for me and the bike) the wide open spaces and almost empty roads. It's even beginning to warm up a bit. The downside is that the bike still doesn't seem to 100% happy, so I'm reluctant to push it beyond a steady 75 MPH, which is going to make the trip take longer. Never mind, I'm enjoying the freedom, although it must be said that the aches and pains from the wrecked shoulder and arm are beginning to work their worst. Thank goodness for cruise control, which takes the strain out of keeping the throttle open for hours and also allows me to flex my muscles and joints. I wonder though, if it's like this now, how will I feel at the end of the day?

By 10.30 am or so, the time has come to leave the motorway and head into Besancon and on into Switzerland.

Besancon itself is surrounded by the river Doubs and in turn, is dominated by a 15th century fortress which stands 350ft above its centre. Many of the buildings date from the 17th century and during the 19th century, it was the centre of the clock and watch making industry in France. Besancon was also the birthplace of Victor Hugo. The whole city is fascinating and I would love to linger, but lunch in Switzerland and that appointment with a ferry in Ancona beckon, so it's onwards and upwards, climbing the steep, winding hill on the N57 toward Pontarlier. There are a few glimpses of the city through the trees as I climb, but no opportunities to stop and take any photos.

As I climb, the scenery and pasture really starts to become more alpine, with small villages dotted along the road and a very rural feel. Free of the city, I make good progress. This is excellent motorcycling country; mountain scenery, pretty villages with church spires, gentle hills, long sweeping bends and very little traffic! Just outside Pontarlier I stop to take some photographs of castles/fortresses nestling on the sides of the mountains on either side of the valley – I can just imagine warring factions taking shots at each other centuries ago (or perhaps they levied taxes or tolls on travelers in much the same way as used to happen on the Rhine? One day I'll go back and find out.). I also turn on my mobile to check for messages – big mistake! There are business messages from Lynn as well as from clients – an hour later I'm on my way again, but now I really must push harder, no more dawdling and admiring the views for a while as some serious-ish speed is now required. The Alps are now drawing near and visions of Steve McQeen in the Great Escape come to mind – Switzerland!

Switzerland (day two)

Very soon, the Franco-Swiss boarder hauls into view, but the crossing is something of a disappointment. As I have my Vignette (Swiss motorway pass) I'm waived straight through – no need to dig for the passport at all. Very quickly after the border, the single track road becomes a motorway and it's now dual carrigeway all the way to to Aigle, my turning for Villars and (a now late) lunch. Although largely following the valley floor, the scenery is now very much Alpine, with mountains (some still snow capped) rising steeply on either side of the road. It's difficult to concentrate with all this breathtaking scenery around.

Despite major roadworks around Lausanne and a much reduced speed limit, I reach Aigle a little over an hour after entering the country. I take a little time to find the correct road through the town, but after consulting the map, I get it right and start to climb up into the Alps. The road is little more than a country lane, but steep, with a (seemingly) never ending string of hairpin bends. For the first time on the trip, the vast bulk and weight of the bike (378 kgs, plus luggage and me!) begins to make its presence known. It's takes physical effort to haul the bike from lock to lock and this is playing havoc with my arm and shoulders. To make matters worse, due to the rough running,the power delivery is “awkward” - a bit like a high revving 2 stroke – nothing at first as the engine hesitates, then it all comes in with a bang. Great, what with these tight bends, steep drops and gravel strewn liberally around! Concentration levels are extremely high – scenery, what scenery?

Eventually, I enter the village, lush green alpine pasture flanking the road, with endless stands of pine trees beyond. Talk about Heidi and chocolate boxes – this is the real thing. After a quick 'phone call to determine the location of the new house (our friends have moved since our last family visit) I finally find Sabrina standing by the side of the road to guide me in – time for a break. (It's now about 2.30pm – I've been on the road for 8 hours!) The silence that descends when I turn the engine off is almost deafening.

The “new” house is really old constructed from timber that is black – it's that old, but apparently, this isn't it's original location – it was moved here piece by piece many years ago. The views are fantastic, being totally uninterrupted by other buildings and stretching right across the valley to the snowfields on the mountains in the distance. Villars is, of course, a ski resort and the last time we were here (April) the ski runs had finally been closed for the summer the day before we arrived, but there were piles of snow up to 4 feet deep at the roadside. All this has gone now of course and it has left behind that “freshly painted” feel that seems to be typically Swiss.

Sabrina and I are bringing each up to date on family developments when the telephone repair man arrives to fix the computer line into the house. Then the fun starts! This being French speaking Switzerland, he refuses to conduct the ensuing conversation in anything but French, which is a bit of a problem as Sabrina is fluent in German, Italian (Switzerland's other two languages) as well as English, but has only just started to learn French! So between us we struggle onwards, me with my half remembered schoolboy stuff and Sabrina with her new found, but limited knowledge. It the end, we give up and call Mauro, her husband at work in Milan (don't ask, it's all too complicated) who explains the problem, it gets fixed and it transpires that the repair man does speak German!

All too soon (5.30), it's time to leave, so I fire up the bike and head off back down the mountain. Mauro reckons it takes about two hours to get from here to Milan – but he's Italian and his car has 4 wheel drive so I 'm working on two and a half to three.

Once through Aigle, I ease back onto the motorway and head for Martigny (very close to where I first skied as a 13 year old schoolboy and where I first tried out my French on someone who used it as their first language – oh, the irony of it!) Interestingly, the bike seems to be running much better now, so obviously, whatever the fault is, it's intermittent. I'm beginning to hate fuel injection systems!

Once through Martigny, I start to climb again, up towards the St Bernard Tunnel. This time, though, the road is much wider and the bends more open so the weight isn't a problem and the huge power of the bike really comes into its own, easily overtaking the cars and trucks that are grinding slowly uphill. The lush pastureland has now given way to rugged rocky terrain with sparse grasses at the roadside and the ever present pines. Waterfalls cascade down the rocks at the roadside, but these are small when compared with the monsters that I glimpse higher up. Almost without noticing, I climb above the tree line; it certainly feels very lonely and remote – almost desolate - up here; there isn't even any traffic. Apart from the road, the only sign of civilization are the posts which actually mark the edge of the road – these are quite tall, so that the snowplough drivers can find the road in winter!

Although it's now quite cold, around 10 degrees, I'm really enjoying this bit, the combination of the road and the mountains have something of the atmosphere of the Isle of Man. It's one of those very few moments (at least since the accident) that man and machine are in perfect harmony and everything is absolutely right; the gear changes are spot on, the lines through the bends perfect and the speed is just right. But we all know that good things must come to an end and the spell is broken by arriving at the tunnel entrance. Having paid the toll (one way) I move on into Italy.

Italy (day two)

Fortunately, this particular tunnel is fairly short and soon the road emerges into a long section covered by galleries (which are open on one side)so at least there are some glimpses of the mountains.

I know I'm in Italy now has the cars are coming up behind me extremely quickly and disappearing ahead at rapid rate of knots.

I emerge from the covered sections of the road into brilliant sunshine, surrounded by pine trees and the spreading vista of the Aosta Valley. (It never ceases to amaze me how the architecture changes so abruptly – on minute it's very definitely Swiss and the next, Italian. There is no gradual change – it's immediate). I continue to descend, through pretty mountain villages with buildings either built from stone or shingles. I then discover that the tunnel system that avoids the town centre is closed, so all of the traffic is queuing up to get into Aosta itself.. Thank goodness I'm on a bike (albeit a large one that is very wide – at least I can filter past the traffic to the head of the queue!)

I haven't been here since 1979 when touring Europe in an MGB – not much has changed, it's still as chaotic as I remember it as I follow the signs for the Autostrada and Turin. Fortunately, despite the chaos, the traffic is well disciplined and I have no problems getting through the town and very soon I'm buzzing along the motorway which follows the valley floor and the fast flowing river. Again, mountains tower on either side of the road, with occasional castles perched on rock pinnacles. As I progress, I move out of the mountains and the temperature begins to rise again (low 30s) although I can see some heavy, dark clouds ahead – I hope it's not going to rain. And indeed it does, the first since leaving home, but in the end , it only amounts to a very brief shower.




Soon the motorway splits towards Milan and I conclude that it's time for fuel, a double shot of espresso and a planning meeting with the map as I now really do need to make some sort of decision as to how far I'm going to go tonight. Basically, I'm about 100 miles from Milan, 390 miles from Ancona, so broadly, if I call it a day in Milan, I'll still have 290 miles (say, 6 hours) to do tomorrow and as it will be Friday, the weekend traffic heading for Rimini will be very heavy, with the usual congestion around Modena and Bologna. All of this means a very early start in order to ensure that I'm checked in for the ferry by 2pm. In the end, I conclude that, provided I can get round Milan without too much of a delay, I'll try to make it as far as Bologna, which is about 250 miles away. As it's now about 6.45pm, I should be there by about 11pm.

Suitably refreshed and with a full tank, I hit the road again, but this time with a little more purpose as I now have a destination in mind. This stretch of Autostrada used to be flat and totally featureless,but now it represents a linear building site – it's a continual sting of roadworks with new bridges, junctions and flyovers all the way along. Anyway, it takes my mind off the threat of mosquitoes – this is the part of Italy where lots of rice is grown, with the attendant supplies of still water and I expect to get well and truly splattered. Fortunately, however, it's not quite mossie season here and I escape relatively unscathed.

And so to Milan, or rather the Tangenziale Ovest (ring road) which is a bit like the M25, with 5 or 6 lanes of traffic in each direction and is usually absolute bedlam. I stick to the inside (right hand) lane at a steady 40 mph and try and keep out of trouble. As I do so I envy the Italians, young and old, male and female on their scooters wearing only the minimal of clothing. The temperature is around 38 degrees, despite the fact that it is now early evening and the sunlight has taken on that lovely gold Italian glow which makes everything look warm, and I'm wearing full leathers! At this speed, there's no cooling breeze, either.

In the end, there are no hold ups and I reach the junction of the A1 – the main Autostrada to Bologna and places beyond. Decision time (there's a Novotel near Linate airport which is now very close) but as I feel reasonably fresh, I carry on and join the headlong rush towards the coast. There's a lot of traffic on the road now and my steady 70 – 75 mph gait is just plain wrong here. I keep catching up with very slow moving vehicles, but can't find a space to move out into the 90 – 100 mph main stream easily. If you can't beat them, join them, so I join what I reckon to be the worlds fastest traffic jam – bumper to bumper at 90 mph, although I do work to keep a “safety zone” around me, much to the annoyance of some drivers!

Just before Modena, a service station looms into view, time for a meal as its now nearly 9pm and getting dark. Another new experience – the Autostrada in the dark. This is not for the faint hearted ,I decide! What with all of these tail lights merging into one another, it's like the river of fire, except that this one works..

Over diner, I call Lynn and let her know about my progress and suggest that I shall be stopping at Bologna a little later on and so, after a break of an hour, it's back out into the maelstrom, except that now it's not quite so bad as there is less traffic and the evening has cooled down quite considerably which makes it easier to concentrate as well. I turn off the motorway and head for a Novotel where we have stayed on a previous trip, but they have no rooms! Not wanting to spend ages going round and round looking for an hotel, I make a snap decision and decide to make for Forli, which has an airport and so, I reason, there will be a good chance of finding a bed for the night (or what's left of it).   So back on the motorway, which is now even quieter, with the consequence that I make excellent progress, reaching the exit slip road a little after midnight.

Joy of Joys – after paying the toll, I emerge onto the main road and off to my right is an illuminated sign on a large hotel. Brilliant, this couldn't be easier! It isn't – although the sign is all lit up, the hotel is closed for refurbishment. Damn!

Somewhat disillusioned, I head off towards the airport and the town centre. Fortunately, there are lots of signs pointing the way to various hotels, but, this being Italy, they are not necessarily, consistent. After a few false starts, I happen across the Air Hotel and although the doors are chained shut, the chap behind reception opens up, despite the time now being 12.45am – yes they have just one room left! Nirvana! After the briefest of 2;ormalities, I'm handed a key, shown where to park the bike around the back of the building and after a quick goodnight, he turns the lights off and I stumble off to my room.

It's been a very long day, I've covered the best part of 700 miles and it's just over 18 hours since I left Reims, although I reckon I've “only” been on the road for about 13 of those hours, including the short fuel stops etc.

For those who might be interested, the address of the Air Hotel is:

     Via Mordani 7
     47100 Forli
     Italia

     Phone (0) 543 781470
     Fax     (0) 543 781711

     E-mail airhotel(at)(at)(at)(at)tin.it

Italy (day 3)

Next morning (Friday) the alarm goes off at 7.30am, something of a lay in compared to yesterday, as I want to on the road by 10.30, despite having only 100 miles to go to get to Ancona. So, after breakfast I check out of the hotel (48 Euro for the night, incl. Breakfast) and check the bike over after yesterday's mini marathon. Although a drop of oil is needed, my main concern is the fact that the tailpipe on the exhaust is covered with black soot – a sure sign that it's running rich (too much fuel or not enough air, or a combination of the two).

Still, there's nothing for it but to hit the road and get myself to Ancona. By the time I've negotiated the now busy streets of Forli and found my way out onto the Autostrada , it's 10.30 , but the traffic is reasonably light, if fast moving. This stretch of motorway is wonderfull as it twists, turns and undulates through the hill past San Morino, occasionally diving into tunnels. One truck driver didn't make one of the tunnels – there is a truck buried in the wall on the entrance – very messy.

Then, just as I come out of a tunnel, over to my left and over the top of the concrete central reservation is the turquoise water of the Adriatic glinting in the sun beyond the buildings – wow, I feel as if I've made it now, Sea to shining sea!

My joy is short lived! I glance down at the instrument panel as something has caught my eye – the low fuel warning light is on; the fuel gauge confirms things, the needle is down at the top of the red section; I flick the trip computer to “range” mode; it shows me a possible distance of 20 miles! (equally, the fuel consumption has increased dramatically - hence the crisis!) I search frantically for one of the little signs on the central reservation that indicate the distance to the next service station – there it is – 30 kilometers. This is developing into one of those aircraft disaster movie scenarios, where alarms are going off all over the place. I instinctively cut my speed back to about 50 mph and hope. At this speed the 20 miles on the trip computer remains constant as the miles tick by – it's getting better. My “target” is the service area at Ancona Nord, the last one before leaving the motorway, so I'm very nearly at the end of the outward trip, but... I come up to roadworks forcing me to slow to walking pace and I have great difficulty keeping the engine running. Still, once I'm into the contraflow, it gets a little easier. The roadworks finish just before the service station and I limp onto the slip road. As I do so, the range reading on the computer flashes to three dashes – meaning that there is less than 9 miles left in the tank!

As I pull into a parking bay, the engine cuts out, but at this stage I make no attempt to restart it. I need to have a drink and a think. I have something of a dilemma – on the one hand, should I try and locate a BMW dealer and get the fault fixed (which will mean missing my ferry – there is no way this is going to be fixed quickly) or should I get the thing going and get onto the ferry for Corfu, where I can at least abandon the bike securely and work out how to get it home later. The difficulty is that the I will need a BMW dealer with the correct diagnosis computer to identify the fault and at this stage, I have no idea where to find one. I may even have to go back to Bologna. Moreover, the breakdown insurance states that before the bike will be recovered it must be totally immobilized and so far as I can tell, it's not - yet.

Over a cold coke, I think things through. Somewhere as the back of my mind is the idea that, by disconnecting the battery, the ECU (the brain of the injection system) will lose it's settings and will then re-set when the ignition is turned on after re-connection. Anything is worth a try, so I give it a go, remembering to open and close the throttle first to re-set a couple of sensors. I nervously thumb the starter button - it fails to start, so I wait a couple of seconds and try again. This time it starts and is running very roughly, but after a few seconds settles down to a nice even idle. Decision made! I refuel (the tank takes 23.7 litres where the maximum capacity is 24!) and head out onto the Autostrada again for the last few miles into Ancona. Disconnecting the battery has also reset the trip computer and the MPG is now reading 65, rather that the disturbing 35 MPG when I stopped.


Hopefully, at least a temporary solution to the problem, as I'm sure that it a permanent fix can't be that simple.

Once off the motorway, I follow the winding road down towards Ancona, finally entering the busy traffic, all of which appears to be heading towards the port. The main road here runs along the seafront, but is separated from the sea by a railway line. Eventually, I come to the slip road leading off to the right towards the port. This narrow road takes me through the back of an industrial estate before spitting me out on to the quayside, after crossing the railway line.

Welcome to the chaos that is Ancona! The port isn't a separately fenced off area, but is just a series of moorings alongside the road, so all of the traffic gets mixed together! It's exciting though, with a Superfast Ferry loading to my left and the high ochre-yellow brick and stone buildings ahead, topped with a domed church, all set against a brilliant blue sky with squadrons of martins screaming and wheeling overhead – yes! I've made it!

As neither the Anek nor the Minoan ferries have arrived yet, I have no idea which pier I need, so I make my way to the terminal building, check in and collect my Anek Lines/Igoumenitsa windscreen sticker. I find the right queue and being on a bike, am directed right to the front as the bikes are loaded first. It's 1pm so I have some time to wait. It being very hot I really do need to get out of my leathers and find a cold drink!

Gradually, the quayside fills up with cars (even a couple from the UK) trucks and a few more bikes, mainly Italian scooters, but a few German superbikes as well. At 2pm, the Anek ferry arrives, turns round and reverses up to the quay. After a short delay, it disgorges it's passengers and vehicles; as usual, all appears to be total chaos with people, trucks, trailers cars and bikes all mixing it together, but in very short order, it's our turn to board.

I ride up the ramp into the main car deck and am directed towards a large hole in the ground – the ramp down into the bowels of the ship. As I descend, I am forced onto the centre of the ramp where there are no friction grooves to provide grip – this is all very well until a crewman wants me to stop. Fine, but this is downhill on wet slippery metal. Brakes are applied and I stop without drama – so the ABS does work after all! I get directed to a spot to park the bike, but unlike Speedferries, I'm left to my own devices. In a machinery space I find various blocks of wood and lengths of rope and secure the bike. This done, I make my way to the lounge area for the aircraft seating, find a space, dump my gear and go in search of a well deserved (well, in my opinion anyway) cold beer.

With beer in hand I wander to the stern rail and with large number of other passengers watch the continued frenzy that constitutes the loading process. Cars continue to arrive right up to 15.55 and are loaded, but, eventually, the last ramp is raised – another car arrives, but is turned away, and we depart, just a few minutes after 4.00pm. I wander back to the bar, order giros and another beer and watch Ancona slowly fall away astern.

There are few material differences between this and the Minoan ferry; sure the layout is different, but in all material areas I don't think that there is much between them. The pool area on the Minoan ferry is more pleasant, but then some of the public areas on the Anek ferry surpass those on Minoan.

One thing that does come up later is that as the aircraft seat lounge is further aft on the Anek ferry, there does seem to be more vibration, but then the seats are more comfortable.

I spend the afternoon sitting in the sun and reading, enjoying the mini – cruise and eventually turn in about midnight. Unfortunately, my sleep in disturbed by a very large drunk who thinks it's a great laugh to wake people up. Despite being told to shut up and to go away in a variety of languages, he persists. Eventually, I get fed up with this and threaten to toss him over the side if he doesn't behave. I'm not sure who's the most scared – him or me! Maybe it's the leather jacket that does it but he slinks away, never to be seen again during the night.

Greece/Corfu (day four)

I awake at about 5.30 and wander onto the deck (stepping over our sleeping/comatose drunk) to watch Corfu rise out of the sea, bathed in the pink early morning sunlight. As I watch, identifiable landmarks appear: the Canal D'Amour headland at Sidari, Acharavi, BBE, Kassiopi, Kaparelli Island, the naval lookout station, San Stephanos, Koulora, Agni (morning Nathan) as we turn and head down to Igoumenitsa. Time to go and pack up my bits and pieces and get ready to re-join the bike.

Shortly after 8am, the ferry is gliding up the buoyed channel into the port of Igoumenitsa and drivers are asked to go to the vehicles. Eventually, I get down to the bike and I am relieved to find it still upright. There is a short delay, accompanied by much banging, crashing and shouting , before the hatch above opens and we are spilled out into the sunshine again. It's a short ride across the quayside, through the new International Terminal and a short sprint along the seafront to the domestic ferry port. I pull up outside the portacabin and buy a ticket for the next ferry for Corfu, which leaves in ten minutes, so there's just time to get on board and get the bike lashed down (again) before we sail. I pop up to the saloon, grab some breakfast , and watch Corfu approaching through the windows.


Quite soon (well about an hour and a quarter later) the various recognisable features of Corfu are close at hand: Benitses, the airport and then the Old Fort as we slide into the harbour. We are unloaded very quickly – so quickly in fact, that I don't have time to get my gear on and load the bike, so I spend a few minutes on the quayside sorting things out and swapping my full face helmet for the open face one and then it's off along the coast road, heading for San Stephanos. Just for a laugh, I turn on the CD player and select “Who Pays The Ferryman” so that I can listen to Greek music as I ride along.

Once past Ipsos I once again find the weight and bulk of the bike a bit of a disadvantage , but I'm more used to it now. What does surprise me is the condition of the road surface. Having driven on Corfu for many years, I'm well aware of the problems, but these are magnified when on a bike – it's not so much the gravel as the ridges and faults in the tarmac surface that can easily throw the bike off line. As I pass the viewpoint above Koulora, I spot the Minoan ferry from Venice making it's way down the channel, so I'm probably about 4 hours ahead of any passengers heading for Corfu as it usually goes to Igoumenitsa first.

I'm now into the last few hairpin bends before the short sprint up into Sinies and the right turn down towards Stephanos – almost at jouney's end (well the outward leg anyway) and I'm a little sad in a way as it's been great fun being on the road each day.

I wend my way down through the olive groves and then emerge into the sunlight – down to my right is the brillaint blue sea and Stephanos – just that one last hairpin to negotiate where everyone stops to take photo's (I've secretly been worried about this oneall the way as it's very tight and steeply downhill) but in the end it's not a problem. Finally, I turn onto the main street into the village and stop outside Kaparreli taverna, pop the bike onto the stand and take my helmet off. Even before I have a chance to collect my thoughts, a familiar friendly female voice calls out “Morning Martyn, you made it then” closely followed by “Would you like beer?” - Wendy (of Bob and Wendy fame) together with Bob's sister nicely settled at a table (whilst Bob himself fits the sails onto his boat). I think we're going sailing tomorrow!

I hope you enjoyed the trip?"

 

Martyn

You would think she hadn't been on holiday before. Behave dear - It's only Paxos

I want to see a photo of the hat Helen when you've finished dining at Alexandros and bobbing around on and in warm water.

 

I've got to wait until 14th June 2013 for Paxos again but in the meantime. Taking the van to Devon with our new doggie for my 65th (ON 5TH SEPTEMBER)  OAP day is on the 5th at the pub next to the site. Cheap grub. Can't wait to use my bus pass!

 

Sally Wynne - Born Mill Rd Maternity, Cambridge. (Clare College & Holy Trinity choir) then married, moved via Shelford, Stapleford to St Ives.

 

Malcy, use your bus pas !! Got mine 5 months after my 60th birthday.

You have missed out on five years of free travel   

 

 

 

 

 

You could also try on "Paxos Grapevine" which is on FB. Scroll down the page until you get to a post starting "Transfers to and from Paxos" click on the link and it will take you to a calander where you put your details in. (I'm down for the day before you) At the moment there is no one else wanting a sea taxi on 11th but it might be worth trying.

 

Helen

You would think she hadn't been on holiday before. Behave dear - It's only Paxos

I want to see a photo of the hat Helen when you've finished dining at Alexandros and bobbing around on and in warm water.

 

I've got to wait until 14th June 2013 for Paxos again but in the meantime. Taking the van to Devon with our new doggie for my 65th (ON 5TH SEP)  OAP day is on the 5th at the pub next to the site. Cheap grub. Can't wait to use my bus pass!

 

Sally Wynne - Born Mill Rd Maternity, Cambridge. (Clare College & Holy Trinity choir) then married, moved via Shelford, Stapleford to St Ives.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looking forward to hearing all about it, though not too sure about the "stinger" think I'd prefer to keep chatting on here!!!

Have seen some of the "well seasoned" (not sure that's any better!) travellers tales and keep my eye open for tips on where to go. Some I do like the sound of are the restaurant with the sunset..name escapes me and Biros Tavern which appears to have the atmosphere and food to a 'T'

Think I found where we are staying on Antipaxos and it looks like an ideal location! The second week though the villa(s) are just off the road coming out of Gaios following the East coast, do you recall if roads are busy in and around Gaios. It doesn't appear to be the main road to Longos more a route to Vlachopoulatika where I believe Biros Tavern to be.

Also I have seen some posts about midges (Scottish version)/mossies do you know if are they a problem this time of year? 

Figured it might be like that! Was talking to Spyros (Loggos Rent-A-Boat) last year and he mentioned that there'd been a big land slide that had created a decent beach below the Sunset Bar - accessible either by daft goat track...or boat. 

Oh well, I'll have to content myself with the east coast and a couple of the smaller coves on Anti-Paxos. Shame :)

This might be one for the nautically minded among you but I was wondering if anyone was aware of bays on the west coast that are worth a visit/stop off for sunbathing?

I know getting around that side of the island is weather dependent in hire boats but I do enjoy the freedom they provide, and have used them for trips to Anti Paxos and the smaller beaches on the east coast before.

I'll be there two weeks this coming Saturday and cannot wait, reading the report on here of how things are reassuringly the same despite the financial turmoil in Greece has got me far too excited!

Thanks

Nathaniel

We sat and watched people coming off a boat and walking the wrong way.

Some do a right turn off the boat and you are in Gaios Square. The heart of the 'Town' and the best place for a choice of lunch and shopping. But be quick. Your ship awaits your return to wherever. You have not been to the real Paxos!!!   

Loggos and Lakka are still safe from the day trip boats and hopefully will remain so.

(Didn't see the Captain Hook boat this year. Had a race with it last year over to Anti Paxos in our boat.)

 

I cannot remember the name of the bay that the hundred odd steps lead down to. It is the next bay over from the port. Sorry cannot find my map. We used to walk down to the beach and scramble through beside the old kiln through to the road that leads to the port. You almost have to go back in time and I always felt that we were akin to 'Swiss Family Robinson'. I used to take bread mixes in my suitcase and make up and let it prove in the sun. Our day would be very slow and relaxing and we would end up everyday walking down to the beach at Voultomi and finding the goat path, there is an arrow on the far side of the beach. We would scramble along the coastal path (long trousers good idea) until we came to the end and got down the rocks, across the beach and then out to Vrika beach for lunch at George's Taverna. Not at all sure about taking away food. They said that Bellavista would stay open during the evening if asked, but this did not apply as he was never opened in May. We would eat at Georges Taverna each day at lunch time and just use our supplies to eat at Violetta in  the evening. The swimming pool is wonderful, and for you alone. Night time is great as the terraced gardens all light up. I always imagined wonderful parties there with people on all the terraces, but there is just the two of you. It is surprising how quickly you become used to the peace and quite. I am a proper townie but thoroughly enjoyed the scrambling about on the rocks and the contentment of just sitting under the tree by the pool, reading a book. I think that we were the first to stay on Anti Paxos. Greek Island club reps would ring us up to see if we were OK and tell us that they would move us if we were not happy. We loved it all! It is like going back in time. We would send out a shopping list prior and it would be in the house waiting for us. We would order all the things that you would have at home for a week i.e salad, yoghurt, honey, fruit, spuds, eggs, oil, chicken, leg of lamb, wine, beer etc. Used to take what I could in my case like coffee, tea, bacon. I would love to go again and often see Faye in Gaios and have a chat. We go to Gaios every year now, sometimes twice a year. We have made great friends over the years. I hope that I have given you an idea of what Anti Paxos is like. Unfortunately Anti Paxos is beyond our budget now, except for day trips, you will love it! We moored out boat there last Septembe and climbed all those steps up to Violetta. Definately not as fit as we used to be! Jenny

 

On Tuesday we managed to catch the early bus into Gaios for the second time this holiday.  This time it was to get the Anti Paxos express.  We decided to get off at first beach this time, because we both thought it's far too hot here at the moment for the trek up to Bella Vista on Voutoumi - yes, I know, after telling everybody that it's well worth the climb for the views  - but it has been around 40C since we got here!  So we plumped for the tree-shaded garden and loungers at the Vrika Taverna instead.  Had a wonderful day out and a delicious lunch in the taverna before catching the 5pm boat back to Gaios and just made it in time for the 5.30 bus back to Loggos.

 

Last night we went to a 50th brithday party for Spiros who owns Taxidi bar on Loggos jetty.  He had brought a fantastic band over from Corfu for the occasion and the jetty was completely covered with tables, chairs and people doing traditional Greek dancing - especially one little local boy who couldn't have been much more than 6 years old but obviously has a great future ahead of him as a dancer and kept everyone entertained all night.  The wine and food flowed freely and a great night was had by all - I think it must have been around 3am by the time we eventually got to bed, so I think a quiet, early night is called for tonight!  On a much more positive note, I finally managed to catch up with Loggos Les from this forum, after all these years.  Wonderful to finally meet up Les!

 

So, quiet night at Tolis' grill I think tonight and then looking forward to the Triathlon tomorrow.  Happy days!

I did have a look at the Loggos Retreat Villa and spoke (e-mail) with Sarah who was very helpful she even put me onto a new villa on Anti-Paxos and freely gave me advice. Unfortunately both villas were just outside my price range (although both are very beautiful) as I said to Sarah what I want and what I can get are sometimes very different!! Obviously I am not disappointed with Faye's villas as I think from other comments and photos I have seen they will still give everyone (including me) the WOW factor!

Garrick

Thank you. If you've been back to Violetta for 3 years it must be a good villa with beautiful surroundings!! My plan is to stay in Violetta for the first week as our honeymoon then be joined in Gaios the following week by our daughter and 1 set of grandparents again staying in more of Fayes accommodation, villa Fay and villa Nancy. Also it will be August next year so hopefully everything will be open!! (Faye has been very helpful so far and is still offering assistance with hydrofoils etc!)

Anti-Paxos sounds ideal and from what I've read the island will be 'ours' from about 5.30 each day!

I shall make sure we pack good shoes to walk in! But can I pick you're brains about Anti-Paxos!...

Where abouts is villa Violetta? I've tried to look on Google satellite but can see nothing! (not sure this is really important but I'm curious!!) 

Do you know if the Bellavista (sorry it's closed when you're there but any others?) will serve 'take away' style food (I've heard it will stay open if booked in advance?) that perhaps would be prepared and then we could serve ourselves later in the villa?

Also what sort of provisions are best to take or order through Faye (plenty of water and sunscreen is as far as my thought process has gone so far!) (Oh! and a good supply of wine! I've heard/read somewhere that the locals make their own? Are bottles allowed out of their site for travellers consumption?)

Really any tips that you have for supplies, we shall be there for 1 week and I would prefer to order/organise everything in advance if I can.

Many thanks

Garrick

I wish we'd taken the sea plane when we had the chance a few years ago.  By the time my other half had talked himself into it, the service had stopped running.

 

Deedee

 

We stayed in Violetta on Anti-Paxos for 3 years. We usually had one week there and then over to Paxos for the second week.  This may be a better option for you as you will be on Paxos for your transfer by hydrofoil when your holiday ends.  There are no real roads on Anti Paxos apart from the concrete road that runs along its spine.  Everything else is by foot and some of the roads are just rocky surfaces and not at all suitable for cars.  Walking is the thing on Anti paxos, so take strong shoes as the rocks can be a little difficult underfoot, not a flip flop job!  It is the most beautiful of islands and once the tourist boats have gone you have it all to yourself.  The nearest taverna to Violetta is the Bellavista just a couple of minutes walk away.  This taverna does not open until June which was a dissapointment to us as we always went in late May.  From the taverna there are steps down to the beach and then the next beach along there are other tavernas which are open only during the day.  We would get our supplies in in advance and have plenty of wine and food for the week.  Any extras could be ordered and brought over for you.  Faye is a great lady who will ensure that you have a perfect holiday.  From Violetta you can walk down at least 100 steps to your very own beach.  It is all so quiet and peaceful that when a moped comes up from the port you watch it come up around the bay!  It is a perfect spot for a honeymoon but do consider making it your first week.  If you would like any other info please ask.  Jenny

Having done a bit more searching/surfing I hope that Anti-Paxos will give us a complete 'chill-out' week after the (I'm sure) hectic run up to mid August next year. I was originally looking at one of those huts on stilts (Maldives) then fell off my chair when the price popped up!!!! And was trying to find somewhere for essentially two holidays without adding extra flights! Judging by the comments and yourselves I think I stumbled across a very special couple of islands!

I have found a very helpful Faye at 4paxos.com who has a villa on Anti-Paxos and two in Gaios, Paxos which would suit the granparents (and my budget!) villa Violeta on Anti-Paxos and then villas Nancy and Fay for the second week, they are right next to each other and I believe overlook Gaios bay.

Grahame thank you for the offer but being a 'chat room' newbie I'm not sure how to PM (private message?) you!!

Garrick

We landed at Thessaloniki, picked up the rented car and headed Igoumenitsa. Our worry about the crowded ferry was baseless, the ferry both on- and backwards was 80% empty.

We rented the Kipos apartment from Agni, which was practically the cheapest from the selection and we were really satisfied. Situated 800 m south of Gaios in sligthly elevated position within a block of eight apartments with a nice common pool area. The apartment was rather new and well furnished in Greek standard.

 

Our intention was to track down many hidden beeches, but shortly realized that the pebblestone ground is not really suitable for sunbathing and that the lack of shade is unendurable in 35 degrees, so we quickly discovered the advantages of Monodendri beech, the sunbeds and parasols what the taverna grants free to its clients. We spent most of the days here and enjoyed the natural kindness of the Bulgarian girl who served the icy juices and cocktails on the beech. The exception was the day of our boat trip to Anti-Paxos (which is breathtaking) and the day when we rented a boat from Panos at Loggos and cruised around the island. We paid 35 euro for the boat and 27 euros for the fuel (low speed can save a lot of fuel).

 

Whilst the island is not big, some kind of mobility, car, scooter or boat is definitely a plus. In the navigation we got precious help from the latest Bleasdale map and book which made us possible to discover hidden roads and hidden gems of the island. The hot weather did not favour to hiking but on a relatively cool day we tracked down the deserted village of Kambos Korah. No chance to find it without the map.

 

We were prepared that our holiday on Paxos will be rather costly but pleasantly disappointed. The tavernas right on the harbour fronts are somewhat more expensive but not necessarily the best. We had real culinary experiences further back in the island for modest price. Our favourite places were the Bohemias in Bogdanátika (next to Biros) and the Vontza about 1 km from Gaios opposite the Paxos Beech Club. In the latter one I got the best osso bucco of my life for a modest 8 Euro price. For the compulsory sunset view we opted for the tiny roof terrace of the Kastanida taverna (1 km west from Magazia) instead of the costly Sunset bar. There are only 8 tables on the roof terrace and uninterrupted view to East, West and North. Typical prices for the standard Greek dishes like Mussaka, Souvlaki, Veal steak 8-10 euros, Greek salad 6 euro, excellent house wine 9 euro/liter. Lamb and fresh fish around 13 euro.

We made barbecue on some days and the price of meat (pork chop 5,75 euro/kg) was not higher than the price what we pay at home. However fuel is expensive, better to fill up the tank on the mainland.

 

I was keen to find public Wi-Fi and discovered the "Public Wi-Fi Center" at the back part of Gaios main square. The effective radius was only 10-15 meter and I stood there sometimes together with other computer freaks reading emails or chatting on Skype.

 

We were impressed by the serenity of the island, the crystal clear sea, the gentle beaches of the east coast, the wildness of the west coast and by the cosiness of the Greek people and we were so sorry when we had to step on the ferry sailing back to Igoumenitsa.

 

We heard yesterday about the 2nd Paxos triathlon which is taking part next Saturday.  The bike part comes through Loggos, so maybe a photo op or two!

 

First to say that you have chosen a beautiful part of Greece to start off your married life!

 

I think Anti Paxos could be too quiet for some. Not in the day when the day trippers come to one of the 2 main beaches Vrika and Voutoumi but at night. If you don't self cater I believe you may have trouble getting something to eat and drink!

 

Where as Anti Paxos grows grapes and the beaches are soft sand with the most amazing blue water Paxos has endless olive groves the beaches pebbly and great for snorkeling.

 

As you say Paxos has many choices of Villas it just finding one to suit you. I think first to decide is  where about on the island you fancy: Gaios the capital and the busiest of the 3 main tourist areas. Lakka: the horseshoe shaped village that is a good spot to start many beautiful walks. Loggos smaller than the others utterly charming and very very pretty. Then again maybe choose somewhere more off the beaten track and hire a car to get you about. A lovely villa I saw recently was Loggos Retreat Villa and might fit the bill. A romantic retreat yet close to tavernas and bars of Loggos and it has the most beautiful views.

 

Hope this helps a bit. Just keep asking about anything you want to know, one of us will happily try and help.

Looking to book a villa on Antipaxos for the first week which is very close to the Bella Vista taverna (August 2013) as our honeymoon digs, then move to Paxos for the following week. Being then joined by daughter who will be 13 and her grandparents.

I've never been to this island before but remember Mykanos and others as a child and wonder how Paxos compares. First thing I noticed was the absence of whitewash on the buildings!! But am hoping that as a honeymoon/family holiday it will offer enough...

I like the idea of renting a villa for the second week but there seem to be so many to choose from and wondered if any of you had any ideas? I also feel that being close to one of the main villages/towns would be good?

Many thanks in advance

Garrick

Loggos much the same but how did you know Elaine? They have knocked down the far end of the factory and built a pole dancing bar/disco. The girls are nice and the sound only carries as far as Lakka and Fontana from 10.00pm until about 4.00am.

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  You naughty boy Malcy. I'm sure Mrs Malcy would have given you the length of her tongue had you been anywhere near a pole!!

 

We have only had a boat once and we only went from Lakka to this side of Gaios down east coast but it cost us something like 18 euros which we thought was terrible and dreaded to think what the cost would be to get to Anti Paxos.  Most of the day it was anchored up whilst we were on a beach. Did you go out in the boat every day Malcy as thats sounds very good for 9 days. Any tips on getting the best out of the fuel..ps Kev is no boy racer!

Loggos much the same but how did you know Elaine? They have knocked down the far end of the factory and built a pole dancing bar/disco. The girls are nice and the sound only carries as far as Lakka and Fontana from 10.00pm until about 4.00am.

Prices are much the same as last year. Big beer/small beer most places still e6.00 and only e5.00 at Pratogos on the road up from Loggos to Fontana. Salads are cheap there as well and the view is superb looking out over to the mainland. Don't know about the cooked food but reports in the visitors book at the Old Vinyard were good although the same family own both!

Petrol was e1.93 litre. We used e30.00 in the car and e130.00 in the boat which we had for 9 days from the Roxi bar at the same price as the last 2 years. Went round island and over to Anti Paxos twice for lunch.

We were concerned that we had not seen Jeremy's lovely lady at Roxi and another lady was helping behind the bar but did not like to ask, then all was revealed after a few days. They are expecting a baby in October and a few days later Jeremy told us they had just had a scan and it will be a girl. Big proud smile all over his face.

Meals still about the same price but you do get more extras. We were spoilt by the girls at O'Gios with extra wine and deserts. They have a rather nice, very friendly lady there now who we've not seen before and they have two tiny, silly little kittens. Most of the other cats look in pretty good health and there was allways food and water at the PAWS shelter. Some of the cats didn't even bother to come out begging at night!

We did go to O'Nassos a few times as well. Nice view from there!!!

Some evenings there did not seem to be too many people about and Gaios at lunchtimes was almost deserted in the tavernas until the day trip boats came in between 2.30 and 3.00 then it was almost panic stations to get customers in especialy at Volcano in the square. Spiros at Roxi thinks they are not too short of customers although 90% of those are regular visitors but Corfu apparently is struggling. One of the 5 star hotels is down on bookings as customers who usualy came twice a year were only coming once.

Did not get tempted to try the Pano sailing boat. It's a Topaz Taz which is a bit narrow and similar to one I had first many years ago which was made of polystyrene and was not very stable. There are now a couple of canoes and either a Topper or Laser on Levrechio Beach (couldn't quite tell from the boat which)

Someone mentioned a dog with a damaged tail. We saw a honey/brown medium sized dog with a stump like tail but he seemed quite happy.

I'll let you know if I think of anything else but the next job is to decide where to take the caravan in September. Devon maybe. By then I should know if my pension fund will allow me a little villa or a tent next year on Paxos!

I didn't see any, but then, we were only there for an afternoon, we weren't really looking specifically and it was late May, so still quite early on in the season. I'm sure somebody who knows the place far, far better than me will be along to give you the definitive answer, but I can say that Lakka isn't really the most perfect place on the island if a perfect beach is what you're after. Lakka does many things brilliantly, but for beaches, you're far better off mooching on foot south, on the path past the primary school (the red building looking for all the world as though it should be a customs house) and having a bit of a scramble and an explore.

If walking isn't your thing, or you have young children with boredom thresholds and accoutrements, take Bastas bus, or indeed the island bus to Loggos (should be less than 10 euros in a taxi), from where you can walk very easily to Levrecchio (5 easy mins), or for far greater reward, carry on to Marmari, Kipos or better still Kipiadi (20-25 minutes of beautiful walking from Loggos).

Sandy beaches are to be found on the south, and on Anti Paxos.  All else is shingle, so make sure you've got something appropriate to wear in the sea, if your feet are as nesh as mine.

Best of all options, hire a boat!

Apologies for rambling on so without answering your question.

 

It was on your recommendation Elaine and seeing this lovely photo that we went to Bella Vista. Well worth all those steps to see that view! Voutoumi is the beach I like the best on Anti Paxos less people and so so beautiful from Bella Vista!

 

Malcy on reaching the top  wipe your brow with your 'hat' and then take the stroll across the top passing through a little hamlet and grape vines. Its mainly all down hill and takes you back down to the beach with more stunning views.  

Yes to 1,2,4,5

I always mean to do 3 but chicken out as can't do heights and I am getting worse with age!

I would never take my own boat across to Anti Paxos, too many years spent in the 70s with the old wooden boats and tiny engines. In those days you just were not allowed across there or round the West side in them. Even now some are not insured for it, and depends on the weather anyway. I would rather go on the taxi boats from Gaios, or round island trips, they are used to the seas around Paxos.

 

New ones, which seem to include the Paxositis bit.

4  work out who is on the big expensive boats in the harbour, or even further out! As the wine goes down the theories get worse.

5  People watch at the harbourside when the occupants of boats disembark from their little dinghys, or better still when they try to get back in after a good meal and a few drinks! Wicked really as it must be awful with an audience.

 

 

1  Stroll through the olive groves (yes, done may times!)

2  Watch the sunset from one of the east coast sunset bars (no, never done that)

3  Walk to Tripitos Arch (yes, did this in our early Paxos days, but didn't have the nerve to actually walk across it  )

4  Lunch at Monodendri beach (no, but I've had many a lunch at the beachside tavernas on Levrechio and Mongonissi, so does that count instead?)

5  Coffee and people-watching in Gaios Square (yes, many times)

6  Hire a boat and go over to Anti Paxos for lunch (kind of - done both separately, but never gone to Anti Paxos in a hire boat)

 

So, what does everyone else think of this list and what would you add to it?  Some things I'd add would be:-

 

1  Ride the bus along Loggos harbour

2  Walk up to Loggos Mill and Lakka Point for the best views of the two villages

3  Most important of all - do nothing!  Just relax and let Paxositis take over

 

Sam, what month are you there, you may bump into someone from here?

 

We stayed for 4 nights last year and got bath and hand towels, and Mum allways does, but I have read that they didn't at one time? Helen maybe able to help with that. I take a china mug filled with sponge and jcloth and travel washup liquid, wrapped in a tea towel. Also vanish soap bar for when I do my mis hols stamping in the shower beach towel wash, and when my 2 messy lot can't find their mouths with oil and sauce! Or, better still take them to Sisters washing machine

 

The studios are as described, basic old style Greek self catering. They do have a BabyBelling 2 ring stove and cooker with grill, but not the equipment or space to make a gourmet meal. Who wants to do lots of cooking on holiday anyway? Top tip fill the coffee pan with water and onto boil(saucer on top) as you start your shower. It will be boiling with enough for 2 cups when you finish! 

 

No problem with getting bread and all foods in Lakka. One shop does stay open in the day and Sundays for most essentials.

 

 

Recently Olympic have used the hydrofoils more sensibly taking into account your departure and arrival times, even used sea taxis so you get there the following morning if a night flight. Don't know if it helped that the rep had lived on the island for a few years?

 

You can't get to AntiPaxos direct, it means a bus trip into Gaios. The round island boat trips run from lakka too, chaeper to book direct in the village rather than via rep!  Also Parga trips in mid/peak season. Bastas family also have a taverna and salt water pool at Monadendri beach and provide a free minibus there and back each day. They are a lovely family with various siblings, Uncles, Cousins running both businesses.

 

For those who have been to Bastas before I have just heard that they have dug out the left hand side, as you face the entrance, to allow more space and light into those rooms. Though some customers prefer them in the hottest months. Also Tracey is repping for another company, so a new Lady, Sam.

 

I'm sure you'll enjoy Lakka too.

 

I think there is a map of Corfu Town on the Agni travel site? But just enjoy a wander, drink and food, you can't really get lost as you can see the forts from all over.

I am sure someone will reply to your query with a guide to cost and opening times.

There is a large waiting area there with rows of seats so you cannot miss it.

It is across the road from the Atlantis Hotel.

Hope this helps.

 

On the west side of the bay the first one along the path is small and usually (depending upon the winter storms) gently shelving - once over the stones it is quite sandy underfoot. Further along is Harami which is longer and shelves steeper and has a taverna at the back (maybe ?) and has sun loungers for hire.

 

Some people go across the other, east side, where there is a sand and shingle area each side of the small breakwater

 

These are all 10- 15 mins walk from Andrikos.

 

Further up and along the headland you can walk to Planis beach below the lighthouse which looks out over the west coast - and quite good for snokelling etc : too far and hilly for me at my age though! - and from memory probably a good 40 minute walk

 

For a more adventurous trek you could walk (or bus and walk) to a number of 'beaches' on the east coast between Lakka and Loggos. If you like walking its probably worth buying the Bleasdale walking map which will guide you to all of the beaches and sights on the island.

 

Failing that - hire a boat for a day or two and find your own piece of paradise on either the east or west coasts ( or subject to weather in search of some real sand on Anti Paxos

 

Enjoy your first (and, unless you are some of the very few who hate the place, unlikely to be your last) trip to Paxos

 

Many others on here will be able to give you their own views and preferences

 

Jeff

 

Sally, try a night in Corfu for a change. I enjoyed my stay at Constantinopolis hotel and Elaine has had a few days there before Paxos a couple of times now.

 

Kassiopi is the main centre for boat trips for the north/north east coasts.  You will be able to book the excursions at local tourist offices in your resort and the price usually includes tranport to and from Kassiopi.  I think the trips to Erikousa island depart from Sidari. 

As Bob says, the evening boat trip to Corfu town is lovely, last year we booked that in Kassiopi so no extra transport included and it was €16 per person.  There are other boat trips on offer, day trips to Corfu town, north east coast cruise.  There are longer excursions to Paxos & Anti Paxos/Parga.  The boats depart from Corfu town but again you can book them in resort and transport to & from Corfu town is included.  We took the Paxos & Anti Paxos trip last year, booked it in Kalami and I think it was €29 per person.

 

Deedee

 

For the best of both worlds, do hire a boat for a day and explore the east coast of the island - you do get an entirely different perspective from the sea.  You may also be able to take a trip down the west coast - much more barren and remote - but this does depend upon the weather being calm.  You can also get over to Anti Paxos/Emmerald Bay - well worth a visit.

 

 

I think smacking should still be allowed in certain cicumstanties!!!  NO!!! not that.

 

Sorry - I digress. I am 65 this year. Will part retire.(Can't afford not to) We are probably on our last visit to Paxos this year when we will have the luxury of a little villa with a pool. The Old Vinyard.

We've got the caravan now but Val would still like her time in the sun and I would still love to get back again onto a Roxi Boat. (Norfolk Broads and Loch Ness are boring now.) will be looking for less costly options.

I know there is Bastos. Any other sugestions?

Would love to be able to return but on a lesser budget. Will be looking when we arrive again for our 7th time on 8th June.

So looking forward to meeting the locals again in Loggos