As regards the wi-fi, I need the Skype to keep contact with my elderly parents, this is important to me.

We landed at Thessaloniki, picked up the rented car and headed Igoumenitsa. Our worry about the crowded ferry was baseless, the ferry both on- and backwards was 80% empty.

We rented the Kipos apartment from Agni, which was practically the cheapest from the selection and we were really satisfied. Situated 800 m south of Gaios in sligthly elevated position within a block of eight apartments with a nice common pool area. The apartment was rather new and well furnished in Greek standard.

 

Our intention was to track down many hidden beeches, but shortly realized that the pebblestone ground is not really suitable for sunbathing and that the lack of shade is unendurable in 35 degrees, so we quickly discovered the advantages of Monodendri beech, the sunbeds and parasols what the taverna grants free to its clients. We spent most of the days here and enjoyed the natural kindness of the Bulgarian girl who served the icy juices and cocktails on the beech. The exception was the day of our boat trip to Anti-Paxos (which is breathtaking) and the day when we rented a boat from Panos at Loggos and cruised around the island. We paid 35 euro for the boat and 27 euros for the fuel (low speed can save a lot of fuel).

 

Whilst the island is not big, some kind of mobility, car, scooter or boat is definitely a plus. In the navigation we got precious help from the latest Bleasdale map and book which made us possible to discover hidden roads and hidden gems of the island. The hot weather did not favour to hiking but on a relatively cool day we tracked down the deserted village of Kambos Korah. No chance to find it without the map.

 

We were prepared that our holiday on Paxos will be rather costly but pleasantly disappointed. The tavernas right on the harbour fronts are somewhat more expensive but not necessarily the best. We had real culinary experiences further back in the island for modest price. Our favourite places were the Bohemias in Bogdanátika (next to Biros) and the Vontza about 1 km from Gaios opposite the Paxos Beech Club. In the latter one I got the best osso bucco of my life for a modest 8 Euro price. For the compulsory sunset view we opted for the tiny roof terrace of the Kastanida taverna (1 km west from Magazia) instead of the costly Sunset bar. There are only 8 tables on the roof terrace and uninterrupted view to East, West and North. Typical prices for the standard Greek dishes like Mussaka, Souvlaki, Veal steak 8-10 euros, Greek salad 6 euro, excellent house wine 9 euro/liter. Lamb and fresh fish around 13 euro.

We made barbecue on some days and the price of meat (pork chop 5,75 euro/kg) was not higher than the price what we pay at home. However fuel is expensive, better to fill up the tank on the mainland.

 

I was keen to find public Wi-Fi and discovered the "Public Wi-Fi Center" at the back part of Gaios main square. The effective radius was only 10-15 meter and I stood there sometimes together with other computer freaks reading emails or chatting on Skype.

 

We were impressed by the serenity of the island, the crystal clear sea, the gentle beaches of the east coast, the wildness of the west coast and by the cosiness of the Greek people and we were so sorry when we had to step on the ferry sailing back to Igoumenitsa.