Benitses Corfu

Some places are open in Moraitika.. a couple of Bars, Popeyes, for food.. 2 or 3 supermarkets.

You can catch different buses, at Moraitika roundabout.. get on one going south, to go to St George south, Agirades, Kavos, Lefkimmi, etc.

Or catch one towards town for Benitses, Town, etc.

All in all.. are great place to stay, with endless walks & possible bus trips.  

Easter in Messonghi/Moraitika is lovely! But, you would find it very quiet, if you are only used to going in high season. Nothing much would be open in Messonghi, maybe 3k's supermarket, but not sure.

Moraitika is a little busier. Popeyes is open for meals, by the roundabout. There are a few bars open in Moraitika, that are open all year round.

Buses run quite regularly, up until the main Easter days, when there are big celebrations in town. 

Benitses have a nice `Easter Saturday` evening celebration, with fireworks, if you don`t want to travel into town. 

Supermarkets are open in Moraitika, Dimitra, Coop, etc.. but close Saturday lunchtime.

One or two of the tavernas in Boukari are open and it's lovely to sit there, by the sea, before the tourist season starts! If you are wanting somewhere buzzing with life it's not going to happen, but a laid-back, Messonghi/Moraitika, just awakening from their winter hibernation, is worth experiencing..   

We stayed as usual in Benitses, at Argo, and took part in all the celebrations there. We did get the first bus into town on the Saturday. We thought we were early, but it was already packed.

We got a spot opposite the McDonalds, just where the main pot throwing is. We saw all the processions and St Spiridon and then the pot throwing at 11am. It was  packed but you really need be there to see it. The entire green and cricket pitch right up to the castle gets packed. Spiridon is paraded right round the road and back into town from the other end.

We shared the soup. Got to be tried!! and had spit roast lamb on the Sunday.

The weather was lovely, but it was a later Easter, May, and managed to stretch the break to take in my birthday.

I'm sure you will enjoy it.

Jeff

 

Our family absolutely LOVED La Pergola. Their pizza is, by far, the BEST in Benitses as far as I'm concerned.

 

Honeslty, I love Benitses the way it is and wouldn't want the village to change. We did spend our evenings at Connections and it was great. Maybe next time we'll pop in at Potomaki. We did stop to see what was going on some evenings but we never actually sat down to watch the shows. 

 

2)  A small nightclub of some kind would be nice. Not necessarily a disco but maybe a little dancing...some karaoke, etc.  The nights are soooo quiet. I'd rather stay in Benitses than have to drive to Moraitika or somewhere else for a little lively entertainment. (Buddies Wine Bar in Moraitika is FANTASTIC and the prices are way cheaper than in Benitses). 

 

Overall, though, Benitses is my home away from home so I'll always keep coming back. I would just like to see a bit more variety.

Benitses sardine festival  is also tonight.

 

Certainly there are plenty of children in the village- a number of small bilingual ones too who your 6 year old may meet.  They usually come out to play when it gets cooler, around 8pm

 

It is a great base for exploring the island too, as it is on the local bus route to Corfu Town (No. 6).

 

Benitses Arches, Argo Apartments, and others have pools which people are welcome to use, some charge a few pence, others are happy if you buy a drink at the bar.

Today we booked another hotel in Benitses but I am worrying about the beach and how suitable it is for kids. We have two, one is 1 and other 6. Would you help please and send your opinion? Also, are there kids in the village or it is more for travelers without kids? Hope it is good for us as well, and I am happy we are going to Corfu for the first time. Thanks

Both Benitses and Gouvia are my favourite places to stay on the island with friendly locals and small business'. When in Gouvia I ate at Leon a family run restaurant with friendly welcoming staff, but staying in Hotel Benitses Arches really made my trip! 

Has anyone else stayed here? And how did you find the hotel? (I'm new to this blogging so would love to hear what you think!! x

I also remember doing transfers up to Kassiopi and taking ages to get through the streets by the square due to the press of bodies. In summer, it was packed.

Nowadays, I confine myself to the far NW corner of the island and am doing my best to grow old disgracefully. It would help if there were any Metaxa and Coke outlets charging 20 Drx as they did in 1984. Nowadays, you need to sell a kidney to fund a session.

Try travelrepublic.com for hotels/apartments in Messonghi, sometimes you can get a good price!

 

We dont have a great deal of spending money as the dog had a slight accident and £500 went on vets fees so, where's the best place to hire bycicles, as the trip down the coast sounds good, and how much are the boat trips approximately? We've done a few from Benitses and I know they visit the same area, but that was in the days when it cost £6 for a day out on the boat with souvlaki on a BBQ! And how much is it by bus to Corfu Town, and do the buses actually stop? I say this as we once got stuck in Cyprus and even leaping out in front of one didnt stop it  I'm looking forward to spending my time snorkling, but I think I'm going to have my work cut out keeping the other half interested. Do you know if they do fishing trips from the river? 

 

My nephew (Canadian) was baptised in Greece 4 years ago by the village Priest in Benitses.

 

My family and I, including my nephew, are visiting this summer and my Thia has asked that we bring a nice gift for the Priest that conducted the Baptism.  

 

The purpose of the gift is basically for him to remember us and our nephew.

 

My mother (deceased) and my Thia were born and raised in Benitses and my Thia still lives there and is known in the community. I want to get something that's very nice and very tasteful.

 

Does anyone have any ideas? 

 

Thank you!

 

Is there anywhere in Benitses that has free WiFi?

 

The sardine festival did not happen last year due to a shortage of sardines, not sure if it will go ahead this year!

 

I would look at Benitses (Argo apartments would be great), Dassia, Kontokali

That's all depends on your taste and time you have Corfu offers all leisure from museums to night clubs and from taverns to fancy rooftop restaurants. Devote a day for Corfu Town of course as it is a heart of the island. Take a ride to Paleokastritsa, rise to Angelocastro. Visit Sidari with it's Canal d'Amour and sandstone rocks. Laze about in the sun on the sloping beach in Kassiopi. Ascent to Pantocrator Mountain to enjoy stunning panoramas. Attend Empress Sissi palace Achilleion  and then drop in to Shell Museum in Benitses...

That are only few points I could remember at once.

You're correct when you say that cats are more difficult to handle. Having volunteered at a cat shelter here in Canada for several years and have owned 5 cats of my own, I know first hand how difficult they can be. I have received many scratches and bites over the years but I still love cats to pieces.

 

The people who live in Benitses do have kind hearts. I noticed it myself when I was last there that they do feed the cats. Even with what little many of them have, they still manage to help them. (Which makes me want to cry even more...).

 

There are animal charities working down south but cats are more difficult to cope with than dogs. Just south of Benitses is Ag. Ioannis Peristeron where a Dutch lady has a sanctuary with a fluctuating dog population, anything up to 40. Volunteers come out in summer to help her, and if you want to visit, and help a bit she would be delighted.

 

I know several people who live near the stream, and they feed the cats. OK the cats are not like UK pets, and their lifespan is shorter as their lives are harder, but in general the Benitses cats do OK.

 

Can anyone tell me how the stray cat situation is in Benitses?  Specifically, up past the old Village by the creek?

 

The family and I are coming out for July and August this year and I want to prepare myself. When we were there in 2009, hubby and I went out and got food for the cats (big bag of crunchies) and fed them every day for the month that we were there.

 

It literally breaks my heart to see them and I end up crying (yes, I'm a big cry baby when it comes to animals). 

 

I wish I could bring them all home with me.  I also wish that there was a place on the South coast of Corfu to help the stray animals, similar to all the great work that Agni Animal Rescue does.

 

 

As the show has ended, it's evident the makers did just what they set out to do. Maybe those of us feeling somewhat let down by it were hoping that Corfu would work its magic on them and they'd want to expand a bit more on the interesting history and mix of cultures, and explore beyond the beaches.  

Oh well, we did meet some intrepid folk--mostly ladies--"living the dream" for better or worse and feasted our eyes on that beautiful scenery. Hope it intrigued a few people who've never been there to consider Corfu for next summer's holiday.

 

Maybe I have been told wrongly that Benitses was one of the first tourist places. We first visited in 76 and certainly then Kavos was tiny and extremely quiet too. Maybe a couple of tavernas and some rooms and that was about it.

 

Maybe they will do a second series and show other parts of the island.

Gerry

Just thought I would start a post asking when the village festivals are in 2013.

Anyone with definite information, could you please post the village and dates and I will add them to this post. Thank you.

PLEASE NOTE: Some of these dates for the village festivals are not all set in stone as they can be cancelled at short notice due to adverse weather conditions or if there is a death in the village. Local knowledge is best.

18th March    Corfu Clean Monday (Kathara Deftera) celebrated in many villages with kite flying, processions, dancing

28th April   Corfu Town Palm Sunday. St. Spyridon procession

1st May   Corfu Labour Day, parades and other festivities, also marks the Feast of Flowers, a celebration with very ancient roots in festivals of the Goddess Demeter

3rd May   Corfu Good Friday. Day of Epitaphios. Each church brings out it's funeral bier and parades it through the village

4th May    Corfu Holy Saturday. At 11am the First Resurrection and pot throwing custom take place. Silver gilt case containing the body of St. Spyridon is exposed for public worship for 3 days and nights. Thousands pay homage to kiss his slippered feet. St. Spyridon procession with bands

5th May   Corfu Easter Sunday culminating days of celebration

6th May   Makrades Panegyri/Festival

10th May   Paleokastritsa Panegyri/Festival

12th May   Krini Panegyri/Festival (Tou Thomas)

8th May   Kassiopi Celebrating a blind boy who after staying in the church over night regained his sight

24th June   Agios Ioannis Fire jumping 23rd June 2013  (Triklino)

4th August    Paleokastritsa Varkarola

6th August   Pontikonisi, Perivoli, Strinilia, Evropuli, Paleochori, Ag. Deka, Agios Mattheos Church festival held in commemoration of the Transfiguration of Jesus, with days of pilgrimage (1-6th August) on Mount Pantokrator

7th August    St. Spiridon Varkarola 

8/9th August    Nymfes Festival/Panegyri

11th August    Corfu Town Silver gilt case containing the body of St. Spyridon is exposed for public worship for 3 days and nights. Thousands pay homage to kiss his slippered feet. St. Spyridon procession with bands

15th August    Corfu Festival of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Many big festivals with church processions, feasts

16th August    Kato Garouna Gala weekend

17th August    Kavadades Panegyri/Festival

23rd August    Gastouri, Pelekas, Ag. Deka, Viros, Poulades.  Festival of the Virgin Odigitrias

24th August    Loustri/Gimari Pie Festival

31st August          Agni Varkarola

1st September    Kalami Varkarola

8th September    Afra, Sinarades, Marathia, Agios Markos, Lefkimmi Festivals/Feast days

14th September   Sidari Feast of the Holy Cross in the Monastery of St. Ionnis

24th September   Vatos Myrtidiotissa festival

26th September   Karousades, Porta Remounta Festival of St.John/James the theologian

21st September   Kassiopi/Moraitika Wine festival

9-13th October    Arillas Corfu Beer Festival
25th October Messonghi Panegyri/Festival  

 

Personally, I would class it in the Central region.

 

Regards, Steve,

 

Look forward to reading it.

I have a friend who wants some stuff sending over to Chester, please call him on 697 289 5184.

Spiro Spinoulas from Benitses.

Mention my name Mike from Chorley

Thanks.

Barb

I would aim to arrive at the palace around 6pm as it will be virtually deserted then and not nearly as hot as earlier in the day- it is open until 8pm in summer.

 

I do hope you enjoy Benitses, as it still has charm and is still a fishing village. Which part of the village have you chosen for your accommodation?

 

 

It runs along the walls of the New Fortress, there is a car park beside at the back too as well as parking on the road.  To get there by car turn up the hill from the sea at the miniroundabout just a bit further in towards town than the customs house so you are driving alongside the fortress walls. If walking it is the second turning left coming along the main shopping street toward the old town from San Rocco Square.   Open every morning except Sunday, from about 6.30am-1pm. 

 

Half way down are two good coffee bars.  Fish stalls are all at the top end, also some general stalls selling cheap goods of all descriptions. You will also see local farmers selling direct there.  At the bottom end you can see some of the excavations which delayed the opening of the market for over a year.

Does anyone know if the bee keeper and honeymaker is still at Old Perithea, we got some delicious honey there last time, and may go again to get some more, but we are staying in Benitses, so its a bit of a trek!

Many thanks 

 

"I have been promising to write an article about my experiences on my motorcycle trip to Corfu back in June, but I'm afraid that life generally got in the way. That said, I've been working on it steadily, so at long last, here it is (well, at least, the part as far as Corfu!).

In The Begining

The seeds for this trip were sown many years ago, when Lynn's sister was offered a summer job at the Paxos Beach Hotel This was in about 1979 and in those days Lynn and I spent our holidays touring Europe by bike, using a combination of hotels or campsites, depending upon location, length of stay and costs. By way of a change, a trip down to Brindisi, ferry to Corfu and then a local ferry (I think that the Kamelia was still being used in those days) to Paxos in order to visit said sister appeared ideal!

Sadly, the sister (Julie) was talked out of taking the job, so the bike trip never happened. Regulars to the site, however, will know that we have made numerous road journeys over the years and are complete fans of Greece and Corfu.

Now, fast forward to 2004/5 and I am now on the road to recovery following a serious motorcycle accident the year before. I'm lacking in confidence generally (and on a bike in particular) and need to lay a few ghosts. For Christmas (2004) I'm given - by Lynn - both the book and DVD set of "The Long Way Round" - the bike trip around the world undertaken by Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman. Now, this seriously got the juices flowing and my feet became incredibly itchy! What could I do? I've got a bike (BMW K1200 LT). Clearly, I'm not going around the world, but Greece sounds like an excellent option!

Then Lynn managed to wangle a week in Corfu on her own in early May. That did it! If she could go on her own, the so could I, so the ferries were booked (Speed Ferries from Dover to Boulogne and Anek from Ancona to Igoumenitsa) and the route planned. Departure was scheduled for Thursday 9th June and I intended to be back home on Sunday19th. Then, eldest son, James asks if we can do the classic car rally organised by our local pub on that Sunday and can I navigate for him. Well, yes, OK – but! The holiday needs to be rescheduled and what was originally intended as gentle-ish tour turns in to an endurance marathon as I now have to be back on Friday 17th so we can spend Saturday getting the car ready. So after much time spent on the phone and computer, the schedule looks like this:

      8th June – 14.45 Ferry, Dover to Boulogne
     10th June – 16.00 Anek Ferry, Ancona to Igoumenitsa
     15th June – 22.30 Anek Ferry, Igoumenitsa to Ancona
     17th June – 21.00 Ferry, Boulogne to Dover.

This gives me just 4 nights on Corfu, although almost 5 days.

I normally use Minoan ferries, but on this occasion there was no return sailing from Igoumenitsa, so it had to be Anek.

Many people have suggested using Minoan from Venice, rather than Ancona, but with such a short time available for both the driving and time on Corfu, the Anek route provides the best (for me) compromise as you get to Corfu by about 10.30am, meaning that I am in San Stephanos in
good time for lunch!




I'm Off

Anyway, 8th June dawns bright and sunny (a good sign) so after a 06.30 business breakfast meeting, the bike is finally loaded and I'm off – and only half an hour behind schedule. At the last minute, Lynn looks at me and says “I wish I was coming too” harking back to those distant days when we toured together by bike – Ah, one day!

The traffic en-route to Dover is very light and I arrive early for the ferry, despite taking it very gently along the A2, and then find that there is a delay. Still, after grabbing a coffee, I while away the time talking to other bikers about their experiences and plans. As you might expect, they are a very mixed bunch, with plans ranging from a quick weekend away to a couple on a world tour over the next year.

Eventually the time comes to load and the bikes are on first, shepherded into a corner and wedged and tied down to the deck by very efficient crew members, who take care not to scratch the paint and ensure that there is no way the bike will fall over.

France (day one)

This being Speedferries (who use a high speed catermaran) an hour and a quarter later I'm riding down the ramp onto French soil. I always get a buzz at this point – the ferry doors opening onto the whole of continental Europe ahead and miles and miles of open road! But first, I have to get out of town and as it's now 5pm local time, it's the rush hour. Not too bad, only takes half an hour to get onto the Autoroute and start heading South.

My route to Ancona for this trip takes me south along the coast towards Amiens; this section of motorway is quite spectacular as the great modern viaducts span the rural valleys that have remained unchanged for years, then; east through St Quentin, Reims on towards Dijon, Besancon, into Swtizerland, Lausanne, Villars (where I intend so visit friends – hence this less than direct route) through the St Bernard Tunnel and into Italy, Aosta, Milan, Modena and finally into Ancona.

At this stage, I have no plans as to where I'm going to stop for the night, but given that many of the major hotel chains in France serve food until 10pm, it seems sensible to stop at around 8.30. Hopefully, I'll make it as far as Troyes as I know that it is possible to get from there to Milan via our friends in one hard slog, if necessary. Best laid plans! After my first fuel stop, it's clear all is not well. Firstly, an indicator bulb blows as I rejoin the Autoroute, then I'm aware that the bike is running roughly, vibrating more than it should and not pulling too well. Not wanting to stop on the hard shoulder, I push on to the next rest area and check things over (and replace that bulb). As I can't find anything obvious, I conclude that the fuel must be of poor quality and decide to continue with the trip, but refuel again when the tank gets down to half full. This ruse seems to partially cure the problem – it's not right, but it is better. However, having lost an hour or so, there is no way I can make Troyes, so at about 8pm I roll off the motorway at Reims, find a Novotel immediately which has a room available and decide to call it a day. Having checked in (do take your passport with you when you do this, as it saves lots of messing about – I left mine on the bike at the other end of the car park!) I call Lynn to bring her up to date with my progress and to pick up business messages, and go in search of dinner.

France (day two)

The delays on the previous day had put me somewhat behind schedule, so with great difficulty, I drag myself out of bed at 5.30 on Thursday morning, check out of the hotel and hit the road by 6.30, having given the bike a once over. Having had temperatures in the mid 20's on Wednesday, this morning it's cold, only 8 degrees, but with so far to go, I have to press on – I really want to be on the other side of Milan before I stop tonight.

Despite the cold, the rolling hills of the Champagne region give me a positive lift as they stream by, with great fountains of water irrigating this years grape crop on it's annual journey from field to my fridge (not all of it you understand) and it has to get into the bottle first! One of the great pleasures about motoring through France is that the changing seasons are so obvious as rural life follows its never ending pattern. Somehow, in the South of England anyway, this is not quite so evident as much arable farm land close to the main roads seems to have fallen to be used as golf courses.


I'm really settling into the rhythm now, the countryside rolling by, the occasional stops for tolls and fuel (for me and the bike) the wide open spaces and almost empty roads. It's even beginning to warm up a bit. The downside is that the bike still doesn't seem to 100% happy, so I'm reluctant to push it beyond a steady 75 MPH, which is going to make the trip take longer. Never mind, I'm enjoying the freedom, although it must be said that the aches and pains from the wrecked shoulder and arm are beginning to work their worst. Thank goodness for cruise control, which takes the strain out of keeping the throttle open for hours and also allows me to flex my muscles and joints. I wonder though, if it's like this now, how will I feel at the end of the day?

By 10.30 am or so, the time has come to leave the motorway and head into Besancon and on into Switzerland.

Besancon itself is surrounded by the river Doubs and in turn, is dominated by a 15th century fortress which stands 350ft above its centre. Many of the buildings date from the 17th century and during the 19th century, it was the centre of the clock and watch making industry in France. Besancon was also the birthplace of Victor Hugo. The whole city is fascinating and I would love to linger, but lunch in Switzerland and that appointment with a ferry in Ancona beckon, so it's onwards and upwards, climbing the steep, winding hill on the N57 toward Pontarlier. There are a few glimpses of the city through the trees as I climb, but no opportunities to stop and take any photos.

As I climb, the scenery and pasture really starts to become more alpine, with small villages dotted along the road and a very rural feel. Free of the city, I make good progress. This is excellent motorcycling country; mountain scenery, pretty villages with church spires, gentle hills, long sweeping bends and very little traffic! Just outside Pontarlier I stop to take some photographs of castles/fortresses nestling on the sides of the mountains on either side of the valley – I can just imagine warring factions taking shots at each other centuries ago (or perhaps they levied taxes or tolls on travelers in much the same way as used to happen on the Rhine? One day I'll go back and find out.). I also turn on my mobile to check for messages – big mistake! There are business messages from Lynn as well as from clients – an hour later I'm on my way again, but now I really must push harder, no more dawdling and admiring the views for a while as some serious-ish speed is now required. The Alps are now drawing near and visions of Steve McQeen in the Great Escape come to mind – Switzerland!

Switzerland (day two)

Very soon, the Franco-Swiss boarder hauls into view, but the crossing is something of a disappointment. As I have my Vignette (Swiss motorway pass) I'm waived straight through – no need to dig for the passport at all. Very quickly after the border, the single track road becomes a motorway and it's now dual carrigeway all the way to to Aigle, my turning for Villars and (a now late) lunch. Although largely following the valley floor, the scenery is now very much Alpine, with mountains (some still snow capped) rising steeply on either side of the road. It's difficult to concentrate with all this breathtaking scenery around.

Despite major roadworks around Lausanne and a much reduced speed limit, I reach Aigle a little over an hour after entering the country. I take a little time to find the correct road through the town, but after consulting the map, I get it right and start to climb up into the Alps. The road is little more than a country lane, but steep, with a (seemingly) never ending string of hairpin bends. For the first time on the trip, the vast bulk and weight of the bike (378 kgs, plus luggage and me!) begins to make its presence known. It's takes physical effort to haul the bike from lock to lock and this is playing havoc with my arm and shoulders. To make matters worse, due to the rough running,the power delivery is “awkward” - a bit like a high revving 2 stroke – nothing at first as the engine hesitates, then it all comes in with a bang. Great, what with these tight bends, steep drops and gravel strewn liberally around! Concentration levels are extremely high – scenery, what scenery?

Eventually, I enter the village, lush green alpine pasture flanking the road, with endless stands of pine trees beyond. Talk about Heidi and chocolate boxes – this is the real thing. After a quick 'phone call to determine the location of the new house (our friends have moved since our last family visit) I finally find Sabrina standing by the side of the road to guide me in – time for a break. (It's now about 2.30pm – I've been on the road for 8 hours!) The silence that descends when I turn the engine off is almost deafening.

The “new” house is really old constructed from timber that is black – it's that old, but apparently, this isn't it's original location – it was moved here piece by piece many years ago. The views are fantastic, being totally uninterrupted by other buildings and stretching right across the valley to the snowfields on the mountains in the distance. Villars is, of course, a ski resort and the last time we were here (April) the ski runs had finally been closed for the summer the day before we arrived, but there were piles of snow up to 4 feet deep at the roadside. All this has gone now of course and it has left behind that “freshly painted” feel that seems to be typically Swiss.

Sabrina and I are bringing each up to date on family developments when the telephone repair man arrives to fix the computer line into the house. Then the fun starts! This being French speaking Switzerland, he refuses to conduct the ensuing conversation in anything but French, which is a bit of a problem as Sabrina is fluent in German, Italian (Switzerland's other two languages) as well as English, but has only just started to learn French! So between us we struggle onwards, me with my half remembered schoolboy stuff and Sabrina with her new found, but limited knowledge. It the end, we give up and call Mauro, her husband at work in Milan (don't ask, it's all too complicated) who explains the problem, it gets fixed and it transpires that the repair man does speak German!

All too soon (5.30), it's time to leave, so I fire up the bike and head off back down the mountain. Mauro reckons it takes about two hours to get from here to Milan – but he's Italian and his car has 4 wheel drive so I 'm working on two and a half to three.

Once through Aigle, I ease back onto the motorway and head for Martigny (very close to where I first skied as a 13 year old schoolboy and where I first tried out my French on someone who used it as their first language – oh, the irony of it!) Interestingly, the bike seems to be running much better now, so obviously, whatever the fault is, it's intermittent. I'm beginning to hate fuel injection systems!

Once through Martigny, I start to climb again, up towards the St Bernard Tunnel. This time, though, the road is much wider and the bends more open so the weight isn't a problem and the huge power of the bike really comes into its own, easily overtaking the cars and trucks that are grinding slowly uphill. The lush pastureland has now given way to rugged rocky terrain with sparse grasses at the roadside and the ever present pines. Waterfalls cascade down the rocks at the roadside, but these are small when compared with the monsters that I glimpse higher up. Almost without noticing, I climb above the tree line; it certainly feels very lonely and remote – almost desolate - up here; there isn't even any traffic. Apart from the road, the only sign of civilization are the posts which actually mark the edge of the road – these are quite tall, so that the snowplough drivers can find the road in winter!

Although it's now quite cold, around 10 degrees, I'm really enjoying this bit, the combination of the road and the mountains have something of the atmosphere of the Isle of Man. It's one of those very few moments (at least since the accident) that man and machine are in perfect harmony and everything is absolutely right; the gear changes are spot on, the lines through the bends perfect and the speed is just right. But we all know that good things must come to an end and the spell is broken by arriving at the tunnel entrance. Having paid the toll (one way) I move on into Italy.

Italy (day two)

Fortunately, this particular tunnel is fairly short and soon the road emerges into a long section covered by galleries (which are open on one side)so at least there are some glimpses of the mountains.

I know I'm in Italy now has the cars are coming up behind me extremely quickly and disappearing ahead at rapid rate of knots.

I emerge from the covered sections of the road into brilliant sunshine, surrounded by pine trees and the spreading vista of the Aosta Valley. (It never ceases to amaze me how the architecture changes so abruptly – on minute it's very definitely Swiss and the next, Italian. There is no gradual change – it's immediate). I continue to descend, through pretty mountain villages with buildings either built from stone or shingles. I then discover that the tunnel system that avoids the town centre is closed, so all of the traffic is queuing up to get into Aosta itself.. Thank goodness I'm on a bike (albeit a large one that is very wide – at least I can filter past the traffic to the head of the queue!)

I haven't been here since 1979 when touring Europe in an MGB – not much has changed, it's still as chaotic as I remember it as I follow the signs for the Autostrada and Turin. Fortunately, despite the chaos, the traffic is well disciplined and I have no problems getting through the town and very soon I'm buzzing along the motorway which follows the valley floor and the fast flowing river. Again, mountains tower on either side of the road, with occasional castles perched on rock pinnacles. As I progress, I move out of the mountains and the temperature begins to rise again (low 30s) although I can see some heavy, dark clouds ahead – I hope it's not going to rain. And indeed it does, the first since leaving home, but in the end , it only amounts to a very brief shower.




Soon the motorway splits towards Milan and I conclude that it's time for fuel, a double shot of espresso and a planning meeting with the map as I now really do need to make some sort of decision as to how far I'm going to go tonight. Basically, I'm about 100 miles from Milan, 390 miles from Ancona, so broadly, if I call it a day in Milan, I'll still have 290 miles (say, 6 hours) to do tomorrow and as it will be Friday, the weekend traffic heading for Rimini will be very heavy, with the usual congestion around Modena and Bologna. All of this means a very early start in order to ensure that I'm checked in for the ferry by 2pm. In the end, I conclude that, provided I can get round Milan without too much of a delay, I'll try to make it as far as Bologna, which is about 250 miles away. As it's now about 6.45pm, I should be there by about 11pm.

Suitably refreshed and with a full tank, I hit the road again, but this time with a little more purpose as I now have a destination in mind. This stretch of Autostrada used to be flat and totally featureless,but now it represents a linear building site – it's a continual sting of roadworks with new bridges, junctions and flyovers all the way along. Anyway, it takes my mind off the threat of mosquitoes – this is the part of Italy where lots of rice is grown, with the attendant supplies of still water and I expect to get well and truly splattered. Fortunately, however, it's not quite mossie season here and I escape relatively unscathed.

And so to Milan, or rather the Tangenziale Ovest (ring road) which is a bit like the M25, with 5 or 6 lanes of traffic in each direction and is usually absolute bedlam. I stick to the inside (right hand) lane at a steady 40 mph and try and keep out of trouble. As I do so I envy the Italians, young and old, male and female on their scooters wearing only the minimal of clothing. The temperature is around 38 degrees, despite the fact that it is now early evening and the sunlight has taken on that lovely gold Italian glow which makes everything look warm, and I'm wearing full leathers! At this speed, there's no cooling breeze, either.

In the end, there are no hold ups and I reach the junction of the A1 – the main Autostrada to Bologna and places beyond. Decision time (there's a Novotel near Linate airport which is now very close) but as I feel reasonably fresh, I carry on and join the headlong rush towards the coast. There's a lot of traffic on the road now and my steady 70 – 75 mph gait is just plain wrong here. I keep catching up with very slow moving vehicles, but can't find a space to move out into the 90 – 100 mph main stream easily. If you can't beat them, join them, so I join what I reckon to be the worlds fastest traffic jam – bumper to bumper at 90 mph, although I do work to keep a “safety zone” around me, much to the annoyance of some drivers!

Just before Modena, a service station looms into view, time for a meal as its now nearly 9pm and getting dark. Another new experience – the Autostrada in the dark. This is not for the faint hearted ,I decide! What with all of these tail lights merging into one another, it's like the river of fire, except that this one works..

Over diner, I call Lynn and let her know about my progress and suggest that I shall be stopping at Bologna a little later on and so, after a break of an hour, it's back out into the maelstrom, except that now it's not quite so bad as there is less traffic and the evening has cooled down quite considerably which makes it easier to concentrate as well. I turn off the motorway and head for a Novotel where we have stayed on a previous trip, but they have no rooms! Not wanting to spend ages going round and round looking for an hotel, I make a snap decision and decide to make for Forli, which has an airport and so, I reason, there will be a good chance of finding a bed for the night (or what's left of it).   So back on the motorway, which is now even quieter, with the consequence that I make excellent progress, reaching the exit slip road a little after midnight.

Joy of Joys – after paying the toll, I emerge onto the main road and off to my right is an illuminated sign on a large hotel. Brilliant, this couldn't be easier! It isn't – although the sign is all lit up, the hotel is closed for refurbishment. Damn!

Somewhat disillusioned, I head off towards the airport and the town centre. Fortunately, there are lots of signs pointing the way to various hotels, but, this being Italy, they are not necessarily, consistent. After a few false starts, I happen across the Air Hotel and although the doors are chained shut, the chap behind reception opens up, despite the time now being 12.45am – yes they have just one room left! Nirvana! After the briefest of 2;ormalities, I'm handed a key, shown where to park the bike around the back of the building and after a quick goodnight, he turns the lights off and I stumble off to my room.

It's been a very long day, I've covered the best part of 700 miles and it's just over 18 hours since I left Reims, although I reckon I've “only” been on the road for about 13 of those hours, including the short fuel stops etc.

For those who might be interested, the address of the Air Hotel is:

     Via Mordani 7
     47100 Forli
     Italia

     Phone (0) 543 781470
     Fax     (0) 543 781711

     E-mail airhotel(at)(at)(at)(at)tin.it

Italy (day 3)

Next morning (Friday) the alarm goes off at 7.30am, something of a lay in compared to yesterday, as I want to on the road by 10.30, despite having only 100 miles to go to get to Ancona. So, after breakfast I check out of the hotel (48 Euro for the night, incl. Breakfast) and check the bike over after yesterday's mini marathon. Although a drop of oil is needed, my main concern is the fact that the tailpipe on the exhaust is covered with black soot – a sure sign that it's running rich (too much fuel or not enough air, or a combination of the two).

Still, there's nothing for it but to hit the road and get myself to Ancona. By the time I've negotiated the now busy streets of Forli and found my way out onto the Autostrada , it's 10.30 , but the traffic is reasonably light, if fast moving. This stretch of motorway is wonderfull as it twists, turns and undulates through the hill past San Morino, occasionally diving into tunnels. One truck driver didn't make one of the tunnels – there is a truck buried in the wall on the entrance – very messy.

Then, just as I come out of a tunnel, over to my left and over the top of the concrete central reservation is the turquoise water of the Adriatic glinting in the sun beyond the buildings – wow, I feel as if I've made it now, Sea to shining sea!

My joy is short lived! I glance down at the instrument panel as something has caught my eye – the low fuel warning light is on; the fuel gauge confirms things, the needle is down at the top of the red section; I flick the trip computer to “range” mode; it shows me a possible distance of 20 miles! (equally, the fuel consumption has increased dramatically - hence the crisis!) I search frantically for one of the little signs on the central reservation that indicate the distance to the next service station – there it is – 30 kilometers. This is developing into one of those aircraft disaster movie scenarios, where alarms are going off all over the place. I instinctively cut my speed back to about 50 mph and hope. At this speed the 20 miles on the trip computer remains constant as the miles tick by – it's getting better. My “target” is the service area at Ancona Nord, the last one before leaving the motorway, so I'm very nearly at the end of the outward trip, but... I come up to roadworks forcing me to slow to walking pace and I have great difficulty keeping the engine running. Still, once I'm into the contraflow, it gets a little easier. The roadworks finish just before the service station and I limp onto the slip road. As I do so, the range reading on the computer flashes to three dashes – meaning that there is less than 9 miles left in the tank!

As I pull into a parking bay, the engine cuts out, but at this stage I make no attempt to restart it. I need to have a drink and a think. I have something of a dilemma – on the one hand, should I try and locate a BMW dealer and get the fault fixed (which will mean missing my ferry – there is no way this is going to be fixed quickly) or should I get the thing going and get onto the ferry for Corfu, where I can at least abandon the bike securely and work out how to get it home later. The difficulty is that the I will need a BMW dealer with the correct diagnosis computer to identify the fault and at this stage, I have no idea where to find one. I may even have to go back to Bologna. Moreover, the breakdown insurance states that before the bike will be recovered it must be totally immobilized and so far as I can tell, it's not - yet.

Over a cold coke, I think things through. Somewhere as the back of my mind is the idea that, by disconnecting the battery, the ECU (the brain of the injection system) will lose it's settings and will then re-set when the ignition is turned on after re-connection. Anything is worth a try, so I give it a go, remembering to open and close the throttle first to re-set a couple of sensors. I nervously thumb the starter button - it fails to start, so I wait a couple of seconds and try again. This time it starts and is running very roughly, but after a few seconds settles down to a nice even idle. Decision made! I refuel (the tank takes 23.7 litres where the maximum capacity is 24!) and head out onto the Autostrada again for the last few miles into Ancona. Disconnecting the battery has also reset the trip computer and the MPG is now reading 65, rather that the disturbing 35 MPG when I stopped.


Hopefully, at least a temporary solution to the problem, as I'm sure that it a permanent fix can't be that simple.

Once off the motorway, I follow the winding road down towards Ancona, finally entering the busy traffic, all of which appears to be heading towards the port. The main road here runs along the seafront, but is separated from the sea by a railway line. Eventually, I come to the slip road leading off to the right towards the port. This narrow road takes me through the back of an industrial estate before spitting me out on to the quayside, after crossing the railway line.

Welcome to the chaos that is Ancona! The port isn't a separately fenced off area, but is just a series of moorings alongside the road, so all of the traffic gets mixed together! It's exciting though, with a Superfast Ferry loading to my left and the high ochre-yellow brick and stone buildings ahead, topped with a domed church, all set against a brilliant blue sky with squadrons of martins screaming and wheeling overhead – yes! I've made it!

As neither the Anek nor the Minoan ferries have arrived yet, I have no idea which pier I need, so I make my way to the terminal building, check in and collect my Anek Lines/Igoumenitsa windscreen sticker. I find the right queue and being on a bike, am directed right to the front as the bikes are loaded first. It's 1pm so I have some time to wait. It being very hot I really do need to get out of my leathers and find a cold drink!

Gradually, the quayside fills up with cars (even a couple from the UK) trucks and a few more bikes, mainly Italian scooters, but a few German superbikes as well. At 2pm, the Anek ferry arrives, turns round and reverses up to the quay. After a short delay, it disgorges it's passengers and vehicles; as usual, all appears to be total chaos with people, trucks, trailers cars and bikes all mixing it together, but in very short order, it's our turn to board.

I ride up the ramp into the main car deck and am directed towards a large hole in the ground – the ramp down into the bowels of the ship. As I descend, I am forced onto the centre of the ramp where there are no friction grooves to provide grip – this is all very well until a crewman wants me to stop. Fine, but this is downhill on wet slippery metal. Brakes are applied and I stop without drama – so the ABS does work after all! I get directed to a spot to park the bike, but unlike Speedferries, I'm left to my own devices. In a machinery space I find various blocks of wood and lengths of rope and secure the bike. This done, I make my way to the lounge area for the aircraft seating, find a space, dump my gear and go in search of a well deserved (well, in my opinion anyway) cold beer.

With beer in hand I wander to the stern rail and with large number of other passengers watch the continued frenzy that constitutes the loading process. Cars continue to arrive right up to 15.55 and are loaded, but, eventually, the last ramp is raised – another car arrives, but is turned away, and we depart, just a few minutes after 4.00pm. I wander back to the bar, order giros and another beer and watch Ancona slowly fall away astern.

There are few material differences between this and the Minoan ferry; sure the layout is different, but in all material areas I don't think that there is much between them. The pool area on the Minoan ferry is more pleasant, but then some of the public areas on the Anek ferry surpass those on Minoan.

One thing that does come up later is that as the aircraft seat lounge is further aft on the Anek ferry, there does seem to be more vibration, but then the seats are more comfortable.

I spend the afternoon sitting in the sun and reading, enjoying the mini – cruise and eventually turn in about midnight. Unfortunately, my sleep in disturbed by a very large drunk who thinks it's a great laugh to wake people up. Despite being told to shut up and to go away in a variety of languages, he persists. Eventually, I get fed up with this and threaten to toss him over the side if he doesn't behave. I'm not sure who's the most scared – him or me! Maybe it's the leather jacket that does it but he slinks away, never to be seen again during the night.

Greece/Corfu (day four)

I awake at about 5.30 and wander onto the deck (stepping over our sleeping/comatose drunk) to watch Corfu rise out of the sea, bathed in the pink early morning sunlight. As I watch, identifiable landmarks appear: the Canal D'Amour headland at Sidari, Acharavi, BBE, Kassiopi, Kaparelli Island, the naval lookout station, San Stephanos, Koulora, Agni (morning Nathan) as we turn and head down to Igoumenitsa. Time to go and pack up my bits and pieces and get ready to re-join the bike.

Shortly after 8am, the ferry is gliding up the buoyed channel into the port of Igoumenitsa and drivers are asked to go to the vehicles. Eventually, I get down to the bike and I am relieved to find it still upright. There is a short delay, accompanied by much banging, crashing and shouting , before the hatch above opens and we are spilled out into the sunshine again. It's a short ride across the quayside, through the new International Terminal and a short sprint along the seafront to the domestic ferry port. I pull up outside the portacabin and buy a ticket for the next ferry for Corfu, which leaves in ten minutes, so there's just time to get on board and get the bike lashed down (again) before we sail. I pop up to the saloon, grab some breakfast , and watch Corfu approaching through the windows.


Quite soon (well about an hour and a quarter later) the various recognisable features of Corfu are close at hand: Benitses, the airport and then the Old Fort as we slide into the harbour. We are unloaded very quickly – so quickly in fact, that I don't have time to get my gear on and load the bike, so I spend a few minutes on the quayside sorting things out and swapping my full face helmet for the open face one and then it's off along the coast road, heading for San Stephanos. Just for a laugh, I turn on the CD player and select “Who Pays The Ferryman” so that I can listen to Greek music as I ride along.

Once past Ipsos I once again find the weight and bulk of the bike a bit of a disadvantage , but I'm more used to it now. What does surprise me is the condition of the road surface. Having driven on Corfu for many years, I'm well aware of the problems, but these are magnified when on a bike – it's not so much the gravel as the ridges and faults in the tarmac surface that can easily throw the bike off line. As I pass the viewpoint above Koulora, I spot the Minoan ferry from Venice making it's way down the channel, so I'm probably about 4 hours ahead of any passengers heading for Corfu as it usually goes to Igoumenitsa first.

I'm now into the last few hairpin bends before the short sprint up into Sinies and the right turn down towards Stephanos – almost at jouney's end (well the outward leg anyway) and I'm a little sad in a way as it's been great fun being on the road each day.

I wend my way down through the olive groves and then emerge into the sunlight – down to my right is the brillaint blue sea and Stephanos – just that one last hairpin to negotiate where everyone stops to take photo's (I've secretly been worried about this oneall the way as it's very tight and steeply downhill) but in the end it's not a problem. Finally, I turn onto the main street into the village and stop outside Kaparreli taverna, pop the bike onto the stand and take my helmet off. Even before I have a chance to collect my thoughts, a familiar friendly female voice calls out “Morning Martyn, you made it then” closely followed by “Would you like beer?” - Wendy (of Bob and Wendy fame) together with Bob's sister nicely settled at a table (whilst Bob himself fits the sails onto his boat). I think we're going sailing tomorrow!

I hope you enjoyed the trip?"

 

Martyn

 

Sadly, July to the end of August is far too hot for us, it also appears to be very hot according to the forecast for when we arrive on Saturday. But we will just have to keep in the shade.

 

We will be in Benitses from 25 August till the evening of the 14 September. Do you know of any in the area which are taking place during our visit please?

 

Benitses, which is also close to the Achilleon Palace, has a lot to offer and has thankfully lost it's reputation for hooliganism which it had in the 80's. It is a lovely fishing village with a marina, and a walk into the old village to soak up the atmosphere is a must.

 

Further south there is also Petriti, Boukari, Vitalades, Lefkimi which are all worth a visit and not one bit commercialised.

 

PLEASE, please, please, have a look to the south. So many people say they have seen all of Corfu, but we have been visiting for 37 years, and make a point of finding somewhere different each year.

 

I can assure you that there is life south of Corfu town.

 

Lidl's will be the last option of them all, as it has a slightly different taste than the others, but rather than none, or a bottle of something which is not a well known make, I think we will get some, or buy at Manchester Airport for £26 for 2 x 70cl bottles. We can share them with our friends and both have a bottle!!

 

Any one been to Benitses this year? Anything new to report?

 

We staying at our favourite, the Argo with Anne and Spiro, feels like we are going home!!!

 

Roll on September!

 

Thanks for that

 

 

Benitses just had its annual very successful Agia Marina- running on both 16th and 17 July- lots of excellent Greek dancing in costume, by adults and children, brilliant bouzouki playing and lovely lambs on the spit, souvlaki, Corfu beer, and lououmades and that delicious caramelly halva.  Pity we have to wait another year to enjoy it all again!

I'm coming to Benitses in June 2013 for a week for reunion of ex workers and would like to know if anybody knows of any cheap rooms for the week that are OK for me on my own.

We won the league in Fergie Time

 

Also, dont forget to catch the bus up to Benitses, as it is a lovely old fishing village and there are some nice restaurants tavernas there. You will pass through on your way to Corfu Town, which is another must place to visit.

From Benitses, you can walk up to the Achillion Palace, a bit of a walk uphill or even get a taxi up from Benitses, it's well worth it and will be much cheaper making your own way than going on a trip.

Enjoy and hope you get the same bug as a lot of others and want to return back to Corfu again and again.

 

Visited Benitses on a couple of occasions. The last time we were there the sea front was all dug up. Some quaint little shops up the side streets. A nice place, but never did see a curry house. Mind you we were just admiring the place.