April 03 Corfu News

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Warm sunny peaceful greetings from Corfu. A particularly romantic newsletter for you this month.

 Corfu News

Last month you may remember that we reported an unusually cold February, well the weather during March has been fabulous - warm and sunny, making working down at the Taverna a joy. Locals though are more concerned about the 'war'. Our Kafenion in the village reverberates each morning with debates over who is right or wrong. Most though are just getting on with their lives. The television hardly mentions it - unlike the other European countries so I have been told. We have had a couple of demonstrations in Corfu town, but most now are too busy getting their Tavernas and bars ready for the season. As yet we are unsure if there will be an effect on tourism this summer. Many locals are pessimistic, but some holiday companies are reporting an increase in bookings - stating that Corfu is one of the few 'safe' holiday destinations. I am sure many will be looking forward to their holiday more than ever to 'get away' from it all.

 Clean Monday

The 10th of March was clean Monday. Most locals headed for the beach. Expect picnics, dancing, homemade wine, football! and even kite flying - all in the name of a religious celebration of course! Basically a fast of no meat (or dairy products) until Easter - most Greeks only do this for the one day though.

We invaded 'Saint Spiridon Beach' (yes the one near the infamous Blue Bay Escape) - along with 5000 other locals!

Kite flying is hugely popular. Our friends from Kouloura had a kite that lifted you off the ground - it was great fun!

 Taverna News

We have been working hard down at the Taverna over the last few months - but what a result! Having removed all of the old exterior plaster, the original stonework underneath looks fantastic. We have cleaned and re-pointed and kept some of the old features. 

The veranda in front of the taverna has been replaced with wooden beams and old style clay tiles. Whenever we 'change' in Agni we always try to incorporate the traditional styles and materials, and I am sure when you next agree that this year the Taverna looks better than ever.

We plan to open for this summer season at the end of April and of course I will add pictures to the next news letter.

 Local News

Many of you have been asking how Olga's potatoes are getting on! As you can see they have started shooting.

 Spiros or Spiro

If during your next Corfu holiday you enter the nearest bar and screech at the top of your voice: "Spiros, get me an Amstel" -  you will look like a complete tourist! So to help prevent you from making the above mistake we are here to help with a short grammar lesson!

So, you have met a Greek waiter who has told you that his name is 'Spiro' - yet you have overheard others who have called him something else. Lets tell you why:

Firstly, during your meal you could correctly call him over saying 'Spiro, could we have another bottle of Boutari please!'

But - if you are talking about Spiro (not to him) then you need to add an 's' to the end of his name. For example 'Shall we ask Spiros to bring over another bottle of Boutari?'

This is true of all male Greek names. When you are talking to them - no 's' on the end. When you are talking about them add an 's'. With this in mind, if you were speaking to the Taverna owner, you would correctly say: "Costa, we think your waiter Spiros is great fun". Of course you could ask your waiter: "Spiro, do you like your boss Costas?"

Simple really, but please do not go sending me emails asking why girls names stay the same!

Nicknames
Most Greek names are very long and in everyday use are shortened:

Note: Spiros is often shortened further to 'pp' (pronounced 'pea pea'). Try to remember this one as using this expression with local Greeks will usually  gain a smile.

Also for some strange reason, people called Dimitris will often say their name is 'Jimmy'. So also 'Yanni' who will say their name is John!

Confused? I hope not that was the easy part!

  Greek Easter

 Caption Competition

Spiros a local Greek in conversation! To add a caption to this picture,
 click here>>

 Hilary's House Hunt

A Legendary Mansion near Roda.

This historic mansion is located in a quiet corner of Sfakera, a village comprised of old stone houses and mazed with cobbled alleyways. The village is 35 minutes by good road from Corfu Town. It has stunning panoramic sea views and it is only three kilometres from the beach at Roda and four from the region’s top shopping centre at Acharavi.
Entering, an arched gateway (one of two), leads into a large courtyard. On the left is a ruined, roofless olive press, its machinery intact. The two-storey house is on the right. The first floor accommodation is reached by way of a bodzo, a traditional staircase leading to a veranda - a delightful outdoor sitting area with clear views over the olive groves to the sea. Indoors, there is a long hall stretching across the front of the property, which leads to the two large reception rooms and to a kitchen with open fireplace.

Four bedrooms and a bathroom lead off the reception rooms. Total floor area is approximately 260 square metres. This part of the house is renovated and immediately habitable.

This storey in itself would make the mansion an excellent spacious family home, but it is the ground floor that awakens the imagination for the special possibilities the property offers.
The ground floor was used for storage of olive oil and other products of the estate, and three of the huge stone oil containers remain in place in the two cavernous rooms. Utilizing this space, the property could be converted into two large apartments, dividing the existing property vertically. This would give each apartment a large ground floor kitchen/living area, with an internal staircase to bedrooms on the first floor.
Another possibility is conversion to a bed and breakfast, with up to ten bedrooms.
Additional accommodation could be created in the olive press area. These buildings are in ruins but could be rebuilt to give a full-size house, or, leaving the actual olive press as a garden feature, a smaller one. There are also two other small buildings for storage and utility space.
With its 400 year old history, the Nikokavouras Mansion offers a unique opportunity to own a piece of European history - and you will help to save a piece of Corfu’s ancient heritage. The house needs some imagination and a lot of loving care to make a home to be proud of. Call 0030 26630 64494 / 64624.

The Legend
400 years ago, Nikos Kavouras (‘Nick the Crab’) ruled the village of Sfakera with an iron fist in a kid glove. He had earned his name when leading his men in a battle against Algerian pirates. During the fight he suffered a leg injury which caused him afterwards to walk with a crab-like gait.
He always dressed in black and, riding his big black stallion, he was a force to be reckoned with. In one legendary attack, the pirates, believing him to be indestructible, fled back to their boat. But Kavouras’ men captured them and took them prisoner. The prisoners were put in a covered hole, and, with very little food or water, they suffered a slow death. A month later Kavouras released five men and sent them home to spread the word that no-one could gain by harassing the village. That was the end of the pirate threat!

 Boat For Sale

Do you visit Corfu often - then why not buy your own boat? We are selling our traditional wooden boat taxi and replacing it with a larger one.

The boat was completely refurbished two years ago with a new mahogany deck and stainless steel railings. No license is required for private use. Offers in the region of: 15,000 Euros

Specifications:

50hp Ford diesel engine (only 2 years old)

Speed: 8 knots

Number of passengers: 11

Length: 8m

(Lynn and Theo St Spiridon Beach - Clean Monday)

 Lynn's Travel Corner

Greetings from a warm and glorious Corfu, and from Agni Travel!
For those of you who have never experienced on-looking a ‘Greek Wedding’ and all the build up and preparations to it, this month I want to share with you the Wedding of ‘Thomas and Athena’, our very good friends.

Thomas works at the family’s taverna, ‘Taverna Agni’ along side Theo, and has done so now for four summers as an evening waiter. During the daytime he works for the local water authority. Athena is a ‘Border Patrol Policewoman’ positioned at the Kassiopi division! They have been together now for almost four years so it was about time that they tied the knot!
Up to, as recently as 20 years ago the parents of the bride and groom arranged most marriages in Greece and to some extent this still happens in the more remote areas. Today most couples meet, fall in love and get married, and even though the dowry has legally been abolished since the PASOK government Family Law reforms in 1983. This tradition is still maintained in the majority of Greek weddings although not with the traditional ‘Dowry Contract’ as used in the past.
The week preceding the wedding is full of traditional preparations. One of the most certainly lucrative but also adhered to is the ‘krevati’ or making of the bed! This usually happens two days before the wedding and is a big gathering of the two families, relatives and friends. Lots of eating and drinking is of course also customary, and followed by
two young unmarried girls to make up the double bed (similar to our tradition of throwing the bride’s bouquet, it is believed that the first one to get a pillowcase on will get married soon) and then all the people present throw money on the bed including gold coins to make the marriage prosperous.

 After the bed has been showered with money a young male child (or female!) is thrown on the bed in hope that the first child from the union of the couple will also be a boy (girl). The next item on the agenda amazed even me, as I have been to a lot of ‘krevati makings’ here now and not seen this ‘village’ tradition (just goes to show that every village has different traditions) the shooting of the rifles!!

Yes I am not joking; first it was Thomas to fire a round of live ammunition from the rifle into the air, followed closely by Athena! being a Police woman no one questioned her!! Then a couple of very close relatives also had a go. This is to symbolise the happiness of the couple and to let all the other villagers know it will soon be their wedding day - and nothing to do with a 'shotgun wedding'!

Much later on after more drinking and merriment, the local Corfiot musicians struck up their cords and began to play, hence dancing took place outside the house with all who wanted to join in the fun! And what fun it was! Thank goodness I had remembered my dancing lessons from the previous winter here.

The eve before the Wedding is when the couple have their separate ‘hen’ & ‘stag’ parties. This has only been introduced to Greece in the last 10 years, it is not a Corfiot tradition and so not every couple partakes in this event. Thomas and the boys went to have a meal out in the country and then more drinks and dancing was attempted on disco strip (Mandouki) just outside of Corfu town, they had a roaring evening, Theo and the 'boys' managed to find their way back home at about 5am the next morning and staggered straight to bed!

Athena and the girls set off for the ‘Privilege Club’ again on disco strip but the other end to where the boys were heading. After a few drinks they crossed the road to the ‘Stathi’ Bazoukia Night Club. Wow, what an experience! A table reserved at the front of the show gave them the best atmosphere possible, lots of singing, drinking, and later, dancing took place. Much later on after having sore feet from dancing, and a sore throat from all the singing, we decided it was time to head off back home, getting in well after the boys! After all we wanted some beauty sleep for the BIG DAY only a few hours away.
To my knowledge, all Greek Weddings take place in the late afternoon, and never the morning, this giving everyone plenty of time to get to the hairdressers etc. But, the majority of brides have a hairdresser and beautician come to the family home to ‘apply the finishing touches’ to her beauty, some brides also have a video made of their last few hours as a single woman in the house with her family, and getting ready to meet her ‘husband to be’ at the church doors. Now, who would you really want to see you with your hair in rollers?? And no make up on??

On the day of the wedding the groom awaits the bride outside the church with his family and ‘koumbaras’ (equivalent of best man/matron of honour), the bride arrives (it is customary to be at least 30 minutes late!) either in a car decorated beautifully with flowers, or (if not far) walks to the church behind local Corfiot musicians playing a selection of the well known old village songs, with her family behind her.

 Athena chose the latter and as they entered the church the rifles began firing again from close relatives and Athena’s work companions. Once inside the church, there are no pews or chairs, everyone just gathers around and stands next to who ever they want to hold a conversation with during the service! Athena was given away by her father, and all the family members stand at the front of the church, the bride’s side on the left, and the groom’s side on the right. A table flanked by two large ‘lambades’ (very large decorated candles) already awaits in front of the iconostasis. On it are the rings and the crowns (not dissimilar to a halo) laying on a bed of sugar coated almonds, the New Testament and a glass of red wine. The first part of the wedding involves the betrothal, the rings are blessed and the ‘koumbaros’ exchange them between the bride and groom three times. The second part, the sacrament, culminates in the ceremony of the coronation when the priest crowns the couple; these are also exchanged three times by the ‘koumbaros’.

 The three exchanges of rings and crowns signify the special grace the couple receive from the Holy Trinity. Afterwards the couple drink three sips of wine from a common glass, which symbolises the Marriage of Canaa and the beginning of their shared life. The next little bit of the ceremony involves the ‘stamping on toes’, this is where the priest asks ‘who is going to be the head of the family?’ (the stronger of the two) and this is the woman’s opportunity to stamp on her new husbands toes before he does it to her! This caused a few giggles, but according to Theo, now all the men let the women ‘stamp their toes’ first!

After the congregation calmed down, it is now time to undo your little bag of rice (that was given to you during the first part of the ceremony) and get ready to throw it at the Bride and Groom as they are led by the priest and followed by the ‘koumbaros’ around the marriage table three times, this is known as the ‘choros tou Isaia’ (dance of Isaiah), also sugared almonds are used to throw at the couple, the rice signifying happiness and prosperity the almonds fertility and the sugar the sweet memory of the occasion.

The floor of the church scattered with rice!

After the ceremony a receiving line is formed either inside or outside the church where wishes are extended to the newlyweds and their family by all present. The wishes are usually ‘na zisete’ (may you have a long life), ‘na sas zisoun’ to the parents and relatives (may they have a long life) and ‘panda axios’ (always worthy) to the koumbaros’. Upon leaving the church all the guests are given a little pouch made with tulle and filled with sugared almonds as a token of thanks (sometimes these are given as you are leaving the evening reception instead of at the church).

Lots of Wedding photos are now taken inside the church with both sides of the families and friends.

Wedding presents are usually taken to the house before the wedding; however, Greeks seldom make wedding lists so it can be tricky knowing what to buy the newlyweds, in this case an envelope containing money is given to them at the receiving line after the ceremony. This is what the majority of the Greeks give, it is easier than having to shop and purchase a present!

After the ceremony has finished we all get back into our cars and drive to the reception, following the Bride and Groom’s car. Lots of honking of horns is necessary when ever you pass through a village on the way to the reception. It is letting the villagers know that you are a Wedding party in convoy!
Bearing in mind that an average Greek Wedding invites 200-300 people, it is manic to try and park your car anywhere near the venue!

The wedding couple have their own parking space specially reserved!

As the couple are having more photos taken, the rest of us find our tables inside. We sit any where; no seating plan is required as with in England. Drinks are already on the table, from ouzo, wine, water, soft drinks and beers you help yourself all night long. Just put up your hand to a passing waiter and wave your empty bottle at him, he will refill immediately. Once the couple enter the room, the live band starts up, and everyone cheers very loudly, tapping their knife against their wine glass – this is to symbolise the guests want the newlyweds to ‘kiss’. This tradition will happen all night long at various different intervals, when ever someone from the Wedding party starts to tap their glass – everyone else joins in with them, making a loud shrill noise echoing around the room, only stopping once the Bride and Groom have stood up and ‘kissed’ one another.

A meze of starters is handed out to every one, as well as fresh bread, tatziki and taromasalata. The band plays throughout the evening, and the Bride and Groom of course have the first dance, followed by the close family, and then its anyone’s turn, you just have to put your knife and fork down and get on that dance floor! I love the dancing, and only go back to my seat once I am out of breath. The rest of the food is served sigar sigar (slowly, slowly) throughout the evening, with the cutting of the many cakes round about 11pm! The cakes are wheeled onto the dance floor, and the Bride and Groom make a cut on each cake, and a champagne toast to each other, and then are joined by their two koumbaros. They now take the first pieces of the cut cake (cream cake not fruit) and serve it to each other. The cake and champagne is served out to everyone and the dancing begins again. The evening closes around 2am the next morning and on your departure, as you are thanking the couple and saying your good byes, the Bride gives you each a ‘bon bon’ as a souvenir from their special day (pouch filled with sugared almonds).

What a lovely day we all had!

Now, getting back to Agni Travel. This month I would like to show you three very different properties we have on our site :- Villa de Loulia, in Peroulades (rooms Pandora & Persephone), Geronimos House Lower level in Loustri, and Villa Kendroma just on the outskirts of Kendroma.

 Villa De Loulia

Firstly, Villa de Loulia in Peroulades. This majestic converted Mansion House with Venetian architecture has been lovingly restored by Loukia, whose family are originally from Athens, she decided to branch away from the hectic life there and opt for a more peaceful location as well as a challenge. It has taken her three years to complete it to her liking, and it is now a listed building.

Agni Travel can offer you two of the nine rooms she has: Pandora is a delightful twin bedded en-suite room on the ground floor at Villa de Loulia, offering a pool view. The pastel blue shades on the bedroom wall give it a cool and airy feel, whilst the bright yellows, blues and whites in the shower room make it feel spacious and bright.

The shower room has a walk in type shower with curved wall, WC, hand basin, large mirror and wall mounted hairdryer with shaving socket, whilst the room offers a dressing table with mirror, fridge/mini bar, TV and telephone. Pandora is on a room only basis, but a local home-made breakfast is available extra from Loukia and taken each morning from the separate breakfast room on looking the swimming pool and bar area.

For more details, Click Here>>

Persephone is our other bedroom at Villa de Loulia; it is a double bed base with twin mattress on top, making the bed nice and wide. This is also on the ground floor and overlooks the swimming pool and breakfast room. The bright yellow and rose pink interior makes this room very cheerful and warm, showing off some of the natural stone work in the walls and by the bed sides, it includes a table with mirror, fridge/mini bar, TV and telephone. It also has an en-suite shower room, in pastel green and blue tiles with a walk in shower, WC, hand basin, large mirror with wall mounted hairdryer and shaving socket.

This property is ideal for those of you who enjoy either a pre breakfast stroll, or an early evening meander around the village and narrow streets taking in the slow pace of the local life. Alternatively, why not just unwind over a glass or two of wine followed by one of the many local Corfiot dishes that can be prepared and cooked by Loukia’s mother for your optional evening meal overlooking the swimming pool. The breakfasts are all home made dishes, and again typically Corfiot, with meats, cheeses, rice puddings, fresh fruit, jams and preserves for your toast, washed down with plenty of tea, coffee or fresh juices and a bargain at only 13 euros each per day.
If you want a little more activity, then a short drive to Sidari will bring you all the activity you could ever want, not forgetting the ‘Canal d’Amour’ in the. rock formations here. Alternatively, a short walk or drive from the villa to ‘Sunset Beach’ or ‘Cape Drastis’ will show you how scenic this corner of Corfu really is. This is composed of cliffs surrounding small coves, with offshore rocks and distant views to the islands of Othoni, Mathraki and Erikoussa. Truly a painters and walkers paradise! More Details>>

 Geronimos House

Secondly, Geronimos House 'Lower' in Loustri. This quiet and peaceful village is home to Geronimos House with its impressive views from both levels. The lower level offers front and rear balconies at ground level, and just a few steps to the side door.

 Once inside the large open cool lounge and kitchen area, your eyes are drawn to the view beyond the village and focus on Kalami and the Albanian mountains across the ever so near waters.

 The house is spacious and well equipped, making it ideal for a small family or friends who like to spread out. It has three bedrooms (one double and two twins), one bathroom and a separate WC washroom all on the same level. We feel that the rear balcony and lounge will be the most used rooms by all as they open up the whole house, giving it a feeling of friendly yet relaxed holidays and pleasure time.

Just opposite the house is the Geronimos Apartments and swimming pool, where you can take a dip any time of the day and admire the view overlooking in the opposite direction down to Agni Bay. The village has its own Bakery which is also the local corner shop selling anything from cheese to alcohol, to chocolate, potatoes and cigarettes. This is the general meeting place for all the local men & women to catch up on any news and gossips in the area. Across the road from the bakery is Loustri Church, this is wonderful inside and the papas is very friendly although he does not speak much English, that does not stop he chatting away to you! If you walk down the village in the other direction you will pass the old primary school and play ground – still with an odd swing and slide there. The school closed once the big area school opened in Kassiopi, and then it was the local Town Hall until last year when the government built a new one above Kouloura.

There is a pathway from the village leading you down to Agni Bay, taking about 10 mins to amble down, but a little longer to climb back up, beware; sensible shoes are needed on this track – no high heels!

 Villa Kendroma

Lastly, I want to talk about ‘Villa Kendroma’ just out of the village Kendroma. The Villa seems to be perched on the hill side over looking the Albanian mountains and across to Corfu town and Vidos Island in the other direction. It is a spacious, but simple villa offering the seclusion from the village, but yet only a stones throw from the local bus stop to take you either way into Corfu town or up to Kassiopi for a little more ‘life’ if required. A lovely gentle walk down the road that leads you to Agni Bay is a must, and once you are down in the bay, the waters are so inviting you will be swimming and snorkelling in no time. With a selection of tavernas to be had, the choice is always difficult; making sure you will return and sample them all! The Villa comprises of three bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen and large wide balcony.

A short walk up the road brings you to the village of ‘Kendroma’, the kafenion and the ‘square.’ You may experience some village life here depending on what time you pass! The men are drinking ouzo from early in the morning outside the kafenion, whilst the women are purchasing their fresh fruit and veg from the local van in the square. You can always tell when the fish man is on his way as all the neighbouring cats wake up and get in line for their free feed. Once the morning chat is over then its back to their homes and lunch is to be prepared, leaving the village square deserted until later in the day when the kafenion is open again.

Villa Kendroma awaits you! For more details, Click Here>>

If you would like to reserve any of the above properties or require further information, please do not hesitate to contact me: lynn@agni-travel-corfu.com